Tribal Trappings

Seeing Red

2012-01-23T17:26:00.001+07:00

Following not too far on the heels of the Holidaze, Chinese New Year was early this year. Maybe the dragon just couldn't wait. It was certainly out in full force in Chiang Mai, winding its way down Tha Pae Road and then turning into the soi leading to Warorot Market. Along the way it stopped to be 'fed', as bystanders and merchants put folded baht notes into its mouth, receiving a blessing in return.

Accompanied by a cacaphony of drums, cymbals and the multi-bang red firecrackers it made its way down the small soi and stopped outside the Chinese temple where, after multiple bows, it ducked thru the doorway and into the central courtyard. As it made several circuits it was stopped periodically by onlookers wanting their photo taken with it, everyone vying for a good shot.

Back on the street, its tail engaged in a 'battle' with a celestial orb of sorts and someone further livened the atmosphere with an 'up close and personal' firing off of the red firecrackers. The dragon's journey ended in an area where a stage had been set up and the event's MC began making announcements.

The excitement over, we wandered down the street of food vendors and checked out some of the day's offerings. As one might expect, all manner of soups were available and in copious quantities. We especially liked the presentation in the large, shallow golden woks.

Fish and seafood was also in abundance. One stall displayed huge piles of simply cooked squid, shrimp and crab, and another had nicely arranged varieties of fish.

Dessert was represented by some jello-like, licorice-colored black cubes which I've not been inclined to taste, as well as the beautiful, auspiciously colored, golden egg yolk and sugar creations. These originally came to Siam from the Portuguese and are a specialty dessert beloved by the Thais.

Another delight of this celebration was the decoration of the shops. The color red was in evidence everywhere: lanterns, flags, paper dragons, banners and flowers.

Even little ones participated, with this lad decked out in special New Year garb and practicing his manners on passing adults.

It was a fun and exhuberant way to begin the Year of the Dragon. We hope your new year will bring good health and wellbeing, prosperity and happiness. May the dragon be very, very good to you!

To Market, To Market

2012-01-09T22:10:00.013+07:00

Another Chiang Mai Secret, this special outdoor market only happens on Friday mornings. Located across from the oldest mosque in Chiang Mai it is known as the 'Chin Haw Market', a reference to the mosque and it's original constituents, the Chinese Muslim traders whose mule caravans plied the Golden Triangle and as far south as Chiang Mai. Friday morning markets are a traditional feature of the Muslim holy day and I can recall the impromptu markets sprawling into the roadways in Saudi Arabia.

One of my favorite markets in Chiang Mai, this one always features unique foodstuffs, both fresh produce and prepared foods, from the north- sometimes as far afield as Shan State. I usually start with a purchase of fresh samosas from the stand near the front. Filled with potatoes, onions and spices they are just the right ratio of filling to crispy covering, and the right amount of spicy heat. At 5 baht each, they're a steal.

After that I always stop to admire the beautiful rice in all its colorful glory. Who knew rice could be so many different colors.

Nearby the rice is the roasted chestnut vendor. You read right- roasted chestnuts are available in Chiang Mai. This fellow is often here in the hottest time of the year, stoically keeping his products moving over a bed of hot rocks. I only wish I were more fond of roasted chestnuts, as I'd like to show my appreciation for his very hot job.

Somewhere in this stretch I usually find the lady who sells wild honey, or she finds me as I often hear her addressing me with a cheerful 'Sawadee Kha' before seeing her. This honey is brought to the market intact in the comb and the bottles filled right there in front of you. These honeycombs are a forest product: found high up in the trees they require patience, skill and courage to dislodge and bring down intact. The honey is very good and quite reasonably priced considering the effort. Robert has made some excellent mead using forest honey.

At this point, the market opens up into a larger, more open space with a few trees scattered around, and most of the produce vendors are concentrated here. As with any good market, the produce changes with the season, so one cannot always go expecting to find what was there a few weeks ago. I have yet to figure out what some of the root vegetables are, as well as some of the herbs and greens. Many are not typically used in what we think of as Thai cooking, tho may be staples of the people closer to the border or in Burma. This is the only place I've seen the cute melon-shaped eggplants and some very attractive small orange pumpkins splashed with green decorating the stem end.

And how timely to find a salesman of that ubiquitous kitchen tool, the Vegematic, or its lesser Chinese cousin. It slices! It dices! It shreds! For 50 baht I should have probably given it a go.

Also further in the back of the market, hiding on the side between the greens stall and the noodle soup slingers is the purple rice donut lady. These little morsels of goodness (Anthony Bourdain where are you?) are popped into hot oil and when crispy, put into a bowl of jaggery, a molasses-like dark sugar which is just the right sweetness and the perfect complement to the crispy chewiness of the donut.

One of the great pleasures of this market is the people-watching. Many are not Thai, but from Burma, or are members of the hilltribes in the mountains. I often see Lisu ladies in their distinctive solid colored tunics edged in black. And there is usually a selection of hilltribe textiles for sale, such as these Hmong embroidered pieces.

Several stalls sell pre-packaged food products such as the dried egg noodles needed for 'Kao Soy', the famous curry-flavored soup found in Thailand only in the north. I had been looking all over town for 'gram' (chickpea) flour and found it here. Seeds for unusual vegetables of dayglo colors (if the packages printed in China can be believed...ha ha) can also be had for those with gardening predilections.

And on the way out I came across the broom vendor ready to take to the streets with his assortment of handmade brooms of wild grasses. I've been buying these for years as decorative items, but also now use them for their intended purpose. It's nice to know your 20+ baht purchase not only supports the work of a skilled tribal person, but when it's worn out it just goes on the compost pile.

Indulge yourself

2011-12-20T14:36:00.007+07:00

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This collar includes cast bits from vintage metal belts worn by the Chin tribal group in Burma, as well as handmade wood pendants, also from the Chin.

Dumortierite, a stone the color of indigo, complements nicely the fine sterling silver of handmade beads from Bali and the Dong pendant from China. For flexibility, an added bracelet can be worn separately or used to lengthen the necklace.

I have been designing for women of confidence and style since 1992 and endeavor to create pieces of modernity with lasting, versatile designs and high quality components. Not costume jewelry, these are treasures that can be enjoyed for a lifetime and handed down.

See our page for more designs, or contact me with questions, requests etc.

Long Live The King!

2011-12-05T17:23:00.003+07:00

Our beloved King Bhumipol turns 84 today. May he continue to share his wisdom for the betterment of his kingdom and its citizens for years to come. Long live the King!

Rain Dance....NOT!

2011-10-08T16:43:00.005+07:00

A friend has just brought to my attention a wonderful example of a Thai response to the threat of imminent devastation: an official invitation to a "Brahman Water-Lowering Ceremony". Bangkok is facing a serious problem with expected floods resulting from a combination of too much rain, increased flows from upstream, and impending high tides. If the new government's response is anything like that for Chiang Mai's floods last week (money for 500,000 sand bags), they have really big problems! Let's hope this ceremony works.'

Here's our painting of 'Kang Ka', the river goddess, by Por Nan Ton (FCO125)

Antidote to the White Temple... Upcountry!

2011-08-28T17:17:00.003+07:00

Our tour upcountry ended with a truly grand finale: Thawan Duchanee's home and museum called 'Baan Dam'/Black House. Its contrast to the White Temple, a famous artist-built attraction south of Chiang Rai, could not be more striking: personal and eccentric, 'Baan Dam' has an aura of mystery compounded by its links to the natural, earthly realm, rather than the didactic, other-worldly quality of the glistening, blindingly pure White Temple. One senses the march of time for all living things, as well as a respect for the inherent beauty of Nature's creations.

Thawan Duchanee is a Thai National Artist and is famous for his dynamic, gestural paintings of animals and mythical beasts in strong colors, usually red, black, white and gold. Two galleries adjacent to the visitor's parking lot display his work, as well as that of artist friends. Unfortunately all we could do was peer through the glass, as the galleries were closed.

'Baan Dam' is really a collection of structures, accented by sculptures and the iconic buffalo horns which are constructed into sculpture and functional objects, such as chairs and tables, and used to decorate buildings.

Ajan Duchanee's home (above) is centrally located in the compound, with surrounding buildings devoted to guest accommodations, eating and entertaining spaces, and his collections. The collections consist of traditional baskets with sculptural forms (many are for fish-trapping),

unusual natural wood and rock formations,

several fine Buddhas, animal bones and skeletons, old tools, and exceptional examples of wood carving.

Most of the buildings are wood and are painted black, tho there are three dome-like concrete structures in white. A very strange black concrete building on the edge of the area is an idealized Great Hornbill head and serves as a guest room.

Probably the largest of the buildings is the Banquet Hall (below),

a Thai version of a hypostyle hall with large columns made of individual tree trunks and a central parade of long, meter-wide tables made from single planks of teak. Python skins form runners down the centers of the tables. One wonders what the banquet menus consist of...

A basilica for feasting, it includes side aisles with additional tables, each commandeered by elaborate chairs made of horns, antlers and skulls.

Ajan Duchanee also designed the beautiful carved doors,

some wooden 'dtung' (banners traditionally hung in temples)

and groups of totem-like poles (detail below).

Even the loos were worth checking out!

Website: Thawan Duchanee and Baandam Museum - http://www.thawan-duchanee.com/index-eng.htm

Isaan Silk... Upcountry!

2011-08-25T15:24:00.011+07:00

What a surprise! On our recent getaway upcountry (southeast of Chiang Rai) we were taken to a weaving group- "little old ladies who raise silkworms" we were told. As we entered, past a few half-hearted displays of cloth for sale, there was a lady working at a loom; she was weaving 'mutmee'/ikat silk! This is not at all what I expected: I thought that since we were in Tai Lue country these ladies would be Tai Lue. But the patterning on the silk on the loom was clearly not Tai Lue. I asked the lady if she were from Isaan and she grinned and said "Khon Kaen". Then she volunteered that the other ladies were also from Isaan- Udon Thani and elsewhere. I assume they were around 70-80 or so years old- this was their work and their social club, allowing them to keep alive skills they learned decades ago, and to have a reason to get up in the morning. Their modest sign reads "Group Weaving Silk Cloth".

Weaver from Khon Kaen

Her 'mutmee' cloth on the loom. The loops of silk weft are used to adjust the pattern when weaving. They will be clipped later.

This lady is counting and grouping the threads for later tying of the pattern, before dyeing. These are the weft threads; the warps will be of a solid color.

In the foreground is the rack for tying the pattern onto the grouped threads; at least one dip into the dye (green) has been done, showing better the final pattern.

This lady is cutting off the plastic bindings and will then tie on new ones to define areas to be dyed another color. It is very time-consuming work and requires practiced skills.

Below are some tied and dyed threads drying in the sun.

These are one type of basket used for the silkworms. I want some for wall sculpture!

Here a rack holds trays of silk worms in varying stages of growth, including the completed cocoons which will be unwound into raw silk yarns.

Another lady shows off some baby silk worms and their meal of mulberry leaves. The ladies have several mulberry trees growing around the building. Below are more mature worms- big and fat.

Below, friend Nuna shows off the mature cocoons in all their golden glory.The yellow color denotes the type of worm, and reminds me of the cocoons I saw in Cambodia last year- brilliantly golden, they appear to be dyed, but are completely natural.

I was even able to purchase a skein of the gorgeous golden silk for a weaver friend. It was such a treat to find these lovely ladies still practicing their skills and making fine silk cloth using the traditional methods of their origins.
Wonders never cease in the Land of Smiles!

Wai Wan Kru at CMU

2011-07-07T15:22:00.012+07:00

We scrambled this morning to get into town in time for this annual event and were glad we did! In a verdant grove of teak trees on the west side of campus, the CMU Fine Arts Department puts on an eye-dazzling ceremony every year at this time to honor their teachers ('kru'/guru), to welcome the new incoming class and to show off their talents and skills.

Led by a shaman (in white), the ceremony includes lots of traditional ritual to appease and honor the gods of creativity. He was joined by Ajan Vithi, Chiang Mai's famous 'master of ceremonies' and former head of the Fine Arts Department.

Then the dancing girls (and guys) revved up the festivities with a steady flow of ornately outfitted dancers performing a variety of dances, along with traditional drumming.

Thankfully, not everything was red and white...

The good-looking drummers also had some good-looking tattoos.

The scene is a casual one, with students, teachers and onlookers wandering around the grounds, giving the fashionistas an opportunity to show off their costumes. Traditional live music accompanied all and food and water was passed out to the attendees.

This lady is wearing a style (albeit more jazzed up) from the early 20th century that was in vogue thanks to Princess Dararasami, consort to Rama V and from the Chiang Mai royal family of the time.

This is a most curious combination of Gangsta chic, a Khmer silk skirt,
and formal clown shoes. . . . ?!

Where did they get those leggings?! And what do they represent?

My choice for the most elegant- this gentleman is wearing a recent
version of the prized,antique Muang Hun 'phaa sin' from Laos,
along with a jaunty Tai Lue hat.

These ladies are in the usual ceremonial dress seen in Lan Na:
traditional 'phaa sin' with shawls, metal belts, and flowers in their hair.

One has to wonder where all these beautiful people went as the festivities ended and everyone dispersed. . .

Just another day in the life of Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai Secret - Magical Terracotta Art Garden

2011-05-29T16:18:00.010+07:00

Toto- we're not in Kansas anymore! That was my first thought upon entering this magical Oz-like oasis in Chiang Mai's old city back in March of 2009, in the middle of the dry & hot season. I'd heard mention of this garden, but had not had the opportunity to seek it out until I chanced to be wandering down some backstreets and happened upon the garden's beckoning gates.

Going from the dry, dustiness of the city street into the cool, green lushness within the walls was a true revelation, for not only is it a garden, but a collection of terracotta reproductions of the art of Southeast Asia. Thick laterite paving blocks formed paths which were lined with figures large and small from Hinduism and Buddhism: Ganeshas, Buddhas, singhas, nagas, Vishnu, among others.

The walls were lined with bas relief panels from monuments both in Southeast Asia (Angkor Wat primarily), and Indonesia (Prambanan and Borobudur).

Other bas relief panels were laid out on the ground, with some covered in the green velvet of moss that had been carefully cultivated with daily doses of water, hence the earthy smell and verdant feel of the space.

Surreal piles of heads and curious groupings of other figures added to the wonderment.

Some aspects remind one of the monuments in Angkor, where the jungle has imposed its supremacy over the manmade monuments.

As I have since returned with friends, or by myself, it has been entertaining to find the garden ever-changing. Large panels find new homes in hotels or the abodes of the wealthy, both in Thailand and around the world. Broken statues get repaired, sometimes with ill-fitting bits and pieces.

New figures appear in the place of those sold, such as the stunning bronze Indian goddess who is no longer in residence.

Occasionally, the friends I bring buy a piece from the garden. Across from the entrance is a large, handsome wood house that has a showroom, as well as small studio in the back. With luck there may be some artisans at work sculpting the clay and one can see firsthand the talent and skill that goes into creating these amazing works.

Baan Phor Liang Meun's garden of terracotta arts is almost behind the local market at Chiang Mai Gate, which is on the south side of the moat. You can find it by turning left at the soi (6) on the western edge of the market; where several streets converge in a small parking area, turn to your right and the gate is on the right, with the showroom/office across the street. It can also be accessed from Phra Pokklao by going west on Soi 2.

They also have a new, 150 rai (about 55 acres) botanical/terracotta arts garden at their new main workshop in Lamphun- ask about it at the showroom or call 053/278-187 (showroom Chiang Mai) or 053/000-222 (Lamphun).

Craft, Art, and Spirituality - all in a day's touring

2011-04-18T16:57:00.010+07:00

In need of an adventure, our local informal textile group headed to the annual 'Don Luang Cotton Fair' south of Lamphun. Thanks to the skill of our driver, we found it- well-hidden down a lane off the main road, south of Pasang. The Fair turned out to be the entire village decked out in cotton wares for sale.

Evidently this village, and the surrounding enclaves, comprise a sort of cottage industry making a large variety of cotton products, many of which are sold in shops in Chiang Mai. The hit of the fair seemed to be tufted rugs, which most of our group bought. Disappointing, however was the volume of cheap, printed cotton readymade apparel brought in to fill out the Fair. I guess the thrill of the hunt was to find the handwoven, naturally-colored pieces for which this area was once famous.

Having exhausted my capacity for shopping, I wandered around the tiny temple in the center of the village

and was rewarded with some interesting images of reflections and a pair of monk statues housed in a shrine,

as well as a shot of the local PTT petrol station.

After lunch, it was time to move on to our last stop: Dhamma Park Foundation. This very special environment is the creation of two artists: Venetia Walkey and Inson Wongsam. Inson was away, but Venetia graciously provided snacks and congenial conversation prior to our informal tour given by her son Tony. Not only the site of their home, studios and galleries, it is also an artpark, with Inson's large colorful sculptures accenting the lush greenery of the gardens.

Several galleries are open, including a small gallery housing Venetia's whimsical bronzes (below),

and, across the lily pond and bridge, a handsome white building devoted to her plaster sculptures showing light-hearted, contemporary depictions of the Buddhist Pathway to Inner Peace and World Peace.

In a large, old traditional Thai teak house Inson shows a variety of his works, including sculptures, large carved wood bas reliefs, and the original Lambretta motorscooter on which he rode to Europe in the early 1960's. (That odyssey was commemorated by artist Nawin Rawanchaikul in a show called 'Fly With Me To Another World- the unforgettable story of a Thai artist who made his dreams come true').

In the open area under this structure we were given a demonstration of cotton production from cleaning and carding to spinning,

and finally weaving

- they grow their own cotton on an adjacent plantation. This was a wonderful supplement to our morning of cotton shopping, where there were no demonstrations. And it was a great finale to a day of craft, art and spirituality.

Meet TED

2011-03-21T13:16:00.006+07:00

Living on another planet as an expat for the last 20+ years, I miss out on a lot of things, or find out about them late in the game. TED is one. Only recently have I been introduced to TED, and in so doing have discovered a wonderfully thought-provoking new source for ideas and insights. TED stands for Technology, Entertainment, and Design, and is a nonprofit created to share "ideas worth spreading", originally in these areas. It has since expanded its scope and now covers Business, Science, Culture, Arts, as well as Global Issues. Their byline is "Riveting talks by remarkable people, free to the world"; the talks are from presentations made at their annual conferences where "the world's most fascinating thinkers and doers are challenged to give the talk of their lives (in 18 minutes or less)."

On their website you can choose a theme from a long list and then find talks arranged by title and speaker. One theme that caught my eye was "Design Like You Give a Damn", featuring talks by such notables as Dean Kamen (Segway creator), William McDonough (author of 'Cradle to Cradle'), Marian Bantjes (graphic designer), and Paola Antonelli (design curator at MoMA), plus lots of others I didn't know of. Another theme that piqued my interest was "Food Matters" featuring some usual suspects such as Jamie Oliver on kids' lunches, Mark Bittman (minimalist chef), Michael Pollan (organic growing), as well as the intellectually peripatetic Malcolm Gladwell ('The Tipping Point'). There are themes for and about women; themes devoted to happiness, evolution, medicine, comedy, war and peace, poverty, and storytelling, to mention but a few- lots of brain nutrition, humor, and even some live music.

On www.ted.com be prepared to spend many mind-opening hours exploring this site, if you're like me and still curious after all these years.

Sad Times in Chiang Mai

2011-03-21T09:38:00.006+07:00

It saddens me to have to make this post, but in light of seven recent unexplained deaths in Chiang Mai, I must warn others to take precautions in this city. Six of the victims were tourists; one was a Thai tour guide. Four were staying at the Downtown Inn on Loi Kroh Road near Charoenprathet Rd., and another used the pool facilities there, tho was not staying in the hotel. Their symptoms initially indicated food poisoning, but myocarditis (enlargement of the heart) was determined as possible cause of death in at least three, with Coxsackie B virus cited in one of those. Additional tests are being conducted and final results will take time. The WHO and various other health authorities have been brought in, tho the Thai officials are playing down the deaths in a deceptive attempt to counter any negative effects to tourism.

Personally, I consider this a public health issue and consequently of concern for everyone in Chiang Mai, but for visitors I recommend avoiding the Downtown Inn, and other hotels in that area. I also recommend avoiding eating in the Anusarn food court and restaurant area. Japanese food has been mentioned in two of the deaths, tho no specific restaurant cited. It is never a good idea to eat uncooked seafood in unairconditioned venues in the tropics- always avoid sushi and sashimi street food. Try to see your food being cooked and the conditions in which it is prepared. Make sure hot food is hot, not lukewarm or room temperature, especially rice, which is a great incubator for bacteria. Wash your hands before handling food or eating. Drink bottled water. Chiang Mai is still a great place to visit, but as in any travel destination, especially in the tropics, be aware and take precautions.

UPDATE 29 May, 2011: There has been a lot of news regarding this, but none of it with anything decisive. This latest report at least appears to show serious intent by the Thai authorities to learn more about these deaths and establish cause(s).

Everything's Coming Up.... Orchids!

2011-02-10T21:44:00.008+07:00

The first weekend of February always heralds the approaching end of our 'cool season' with the annual Flower Festival, which includes the ubiquitous beauty contest, a fabulous display of award-winning orchids and bonsai, and of course, a terrific parade. Thais know how to throw a parade: marching bands in sometimes-kooky theme attire

alternate with ornate, flower-filled floats bearing beautiful ladies, and/or celebrating the King

and are interspersed with handsome couples in historic costume,

sword dancers, Lan Na gong and drum groups, hilltribes in their respective ethnic outfits (Hmong shown here),

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and phalanxes of traditionally-attired Thais representing villages or companies or other entities. The Fashionistas were also out in force, with some curious interpretations of Western fashions, notwithstanding ironic t-shirts.

The favorite fashion accessory was the colorful Thai umbrella.

Watching the parade-watchers was also good sport.

The Two Journeys

2011-01-16T10:14:00.005+07:00

Official opening: Venetia in black and white, and Inson behind her in shades of grey

January 6, 2011 was the inaugural of a retrospective for two artists whose journeys have been rich in spirit, vision and inspiration. Inson Wongsam, a Thai printmaker, woodcarver and sculptor literally journeyed from east to west on a Lambretta motorscooter in the 1960's, ultimately returning to his home in Pasang (south of Chiang Mai) in the 1970's. Venetia Walkey, a British artist and his wife, came to Thailand in the 1970's and never left, continuing her work as a sculptor and an ardent advocate for spiritual and environmental awareness. Together, they have created an amazing oeuvre, embodied in the site of their home and studios: Dhamma Park and Heritage Garden, located in Pasang. For this exhibition, many earlier works which are not on display at Dhamma Park, were shown, as well as pieces from the collections there. Filling four floors of attractive, well-lit gallery space, the show is a treat for the eyes and mind.

Panorama of an upper gallery showing Inson's prints and sculptures

Venetia's bronze of mating geckos

Two levels of galleries

Venetia's witty bronzes

Inson's carved and gilded relief panels

Venetia's conte drawing of two felines

Inson's large print

Tis the Season

2010-11-23T17:36:00.008+07:00

It's beginning to sound a lot like . . . World War III! Everyone has been trying out their new cache of fireworks for the last couple of weeks, with the crescendo being Sunday night when the moon reached its fullest in this, the twelfth lunar month, and the peak of 'Loy Krathong'. Also known as 'Yi Peng', it is a celebration of the end of the rainy season, and a time to honor the goddess of water sources. We missed the festivities that night, but I was able to make it on Monday for the parade of large floats and the last night of merriment and mayhem. Ah, I love the smell of kordite in the evening! And there was plenty, along with a sky full of 'khom loy', or hot air lanterns that were being set aloft in any space large enough to accommodate them. Here a 'clutch' of schoolgirls ready theirs for liftoff--

The river was alight with the twinkle of candles on 'krathongs' (the little flower festooned floating offerings to the goddess of the waterways), as well as the reflections of lights and lanterns along its banks. (Here a veteran 'krathong'-maker is at work pinning folded leaves onto a base formed by the cross-section of a banana tree trunk.)

Families were out en masse and I noticed several new carnival-like venues- including one at a temple. As always, it's a magical time of year and for all ages. The parade did not disappoint either. We got to Tha Pae Road a little late, so missed some of it, but were still able to see over an hour's worth of dancing girls, magnificently glittering floats, occasional sword dancers with rolling gongs, contingents of traditionally-dressed ladies,

(Thanks to Deb Swingholm for the photo above and below)

and assorted beautifully decorated umbrellas, canopies, banners and vertical 'flags' called 'tung'.

The end was signalled by the 'Last Redshirt', an elderly fellow on his decorated, red bicycle/cart who was following a small army of red-shirted, flag-bearing followers of the former, now exiled, Prime Minister.

2010-11-09T12:43:00.002+07:00

I just read a sad statistic: The National Museum of African Art, a part of the Smithsonian in Washington DC, has the second least number of visitors of all the museums on the Mall. I was able to visit it in 2008 and was most impressed with the quality and variety of exhibitions. There was a fabulous collection of ritual costumes in one room, and I was ecstatic to find another gallery with a show of the work of El Anatsui, one of my favorite contemporary artists. Most galleries also included free printed documentation both for adults and for children.

Their website is also very good and currently features an interesting virtual exhibition of baskets called 'Grass Roots'. From the eastern US, these baskets were made for rice cultivation and harvesting, and have designs originating in western Africa. The cross-continental links are fascinating and also make me consider all the great baskets used in Asia for this same purpose. What an interesting exhibition that would make - a comparison of baskets used by rice-growers around the world! Also on the website is the ability to explore their collections- both artifacts and photographs.

If you are in Washington DC, do put this museum on your list and give it some time. For any art lover it will be time well spent. This is a fabulous resource and deserves more attention and attendance.

In Situ - Private Collections Made Public

2010-11-04T11:14:00.008+07:00

At long last we have added a page for the voyeur in all of us! Called 'In Situ', it will be an evolving showcase of the collections of friends, clients, as well as our own, and show how others live with their tribal treasures. We will include creative displays and novel uses of ethnic art, artifacts and textiles. Please feel free to share photos of your collection(s) with us - email us for image parameters and we'll do the rest. Below is from the apartment of a collecting couple in Chicago (item details on our site).

Doi Saket Film Festival

2010-10-22T13:06:00.002+07:00

If you're not very familiar with Chiang Mai and environs, you are probably wondering what this is about. And even if you are, you are thinking that 'Doi Saket' and 'film festival' do not compute, as Doi Saket is a sleepy village 15km north of Chiang Mai which is famous for its temple on the hilltop. But, from 23-30 October this unlikely venue, and others around Chiang Mai proper, will be the settings for screenings of numerous independent films from around the world. The official website finally has a schedule of the showtimes and places and can be downloaded here.

Journey to Afghanistan

2010-08-28T23:21:00.006+07:00

While cruising Metafilter I happened upon this mesmerizing and beautiful collection of photographs of Afghanistan, many of which were taken in the 1970's. The intrepid photographer is Luke Powell, about whom I know little. He was in Afghanistan in the mid-late 1970's and evidently left only days before the coup which was followed by the Russian occupation. He did not return until 2000. I particularly liked his introductory paragraph:

"It is important for those living in the industrial world to develop an appreciation for cultures that are sustainable, to learn to see beauty and survival in a world where people walk, live in daily contact with animals, raise their own food, pray, and live in families. Such people have as much to teach us as we have to teach them. "

Stop what you're doing; settle into your chair and take a vicarious trip into an ancient, majestic landscape inhabited by tough, resilient people. And ask yourself what we're doing there.

IKTT - The Rest of the Story

2010-08-25T16:12:00.004+07:00

After visiting IKTT in Siem Reap, I was invited to join Mr. Morimoto Kikuo the next day at his other site, 'Wisdom of the Forest'. Located 30+km outside of Siem Reap, it is the incubator for the raw materials used in the production of IKTT's textiles. Here, on a large plot of land out in the country, he oversees the care and feeding of the silk worms, complete with an orchard of mulberry trees; there is an indigo plantation; other dyestuffs are grown; cotton is grown and processed; and the banana fibers necessary for tying the threads prior to patterning are prepared. Numerous workers and their families live on site, and there is a guesthouse for visitors; interested parties can stay for days, or weeks to observe and receive firsthand experience in the different stages of the processes. Mr. Morimoto has a home here and I was fortunate that he had time to show me some of his personal textile collection, which included some beautiful antique 'hol', as well as some of the tribal cotton textiles from northeast Cambodia.

Mr. Morimoto Kikuo shows a cache of silk cocoons awaiting processing.

Here they are boiled to dissolve the sticky substance which holds the fibers together,
and allows for the winding of the filament onto a special reel (below)

(Above) Banana tree trunks are cut and then sliced into strips to make the fibers for tying the threads for patterning (below), prior to dyeing. Most ikat-makers now use plastic fibers for this step, but IKTT finds that the banana fiber produces better quality designs.

These ladies are processing 'stick lac' in a mortar so that it can be used to make the dye
for the beautiful red color used on silk in this part of the world. 'Stick lac' is
a resinous deposit made by insects onto tree branches.

On the drive out to IKTT's country site I noticed the use of scarecrow-like figures propped up at the entries of most of the properties along the road. This is something we do not see in Thailand. I subsequently read that they are usually put there after misfortune has struck- illness, accident, whatever- to scare away malevolent spirits believed to have caused the problem. Sadly, they were fairly ubiquitous on our journey.

The journey was not without our own discomforts: recent rains had left the red dirt roads pocked with holes and deep ruts, making the ride very rough. Cambodian 'tuk tuks' are not like Thai 'tuk tuks': they are glorified horse buggies hitched to, and powered by small motorcycles which the driver rides. I couldn't help but compare the journey to those made in pre-auto times with horse-drawn coaches as the mode of conveyance. Thankfully, Mr. Ral, my faithful driver was prepared, as he stopped and whipped out a much-welcome pillow for my back. Needless to say, I was very thankful when it was over and we were back on paved roads.

Ikat at IKTT

2010-07-25T22:13:00.009+07:00

Past the old market in Siem Reap, along the curve of the river heading out of town is House 472 on Road To Lake. That's the official address of a world-renowned textile workshop and shop called The Institute for Khmer Traditional Textiles, or IKTT. Begun by Morimoto Kikuo in 1996, IKTT is his vision for recreating the glorious Khmer silk textiles which were one of Cambodia's high art forms in the past. The name is a clever play on the term "ikat" for the tie-before-dyeing patterning technique used to create these works, which in Cambodian is known as "hol". It was not an easy task to find workers knowledgeable in these techniques, since the dark days of the Khmer Rouge had all but eliminated most of them. Now, it is most gratifying to visit the unassuming House 472 and find behind the bamboo shades the ground level filled with the competent ladies who are recreating the fine old patterns in new, naturally-colored silk. The large space is filled with looms, spinning wheels and reels, tying stands, as well as babies sleeping in swinging hammocks at their mothers' sides. Above, the shop and offices occupy the open, high-ceilinged space, and here one can admire and acquire the exquisite finished products being made below.

Hunting & Gathering in the Land of Angkor

2010-07-24T22:21:00.008+07:00

Greetings from Kampu-CHA, as the Thais say it. Better known as Cambodia. I've not been here for quite a while and had been wanting to return and see how it's changed. Siem Reap still had a recognizable street layout, but vast stretches that had been undeveloped are now full of concrete mega-hotels sporting names evocative of a long gone, culturally rich past- most with the word "Angkor" included of course. Large shophouse developments were filling in the gaps between the hotels and parking lots sized for tour buses covered vast swathes of land. The roads had improved, with most being paved, tho the ubiquitous red dust was still present, giving it all a 'wild west' feel that was only reinforced by the anarchic traffic and lack of stop signs and traffic lights. Oh, and when it comes to turn signals... "we don't need no stinking turn signals!" One really has the sense that things are wide open, possibilities endless, laws lacking or unenforced. More than once I heard this expressed by resident expats who had come to start businesses. The one thing that had not changed tho was the general good nature of the Cambodian people. One could not help but feel their friendliness and ease with strangers. Granted, many with whom I came into contact were employed in the tourism industry, be it as drivers, guides, or shop workers, but the smiles and the desire to help or serve seemed genuine. Below is my favorite driver, Mr. Ral. I stayed at the small hotel Hanuman Alaya, which is owned by friend Tan Sotho, and thoroughly enjoyed the gracious Khmer hospitality and beautiful surroundings. The scale is small and it's full of her collection of antiques. Just one small example of the attention to detail is the back of their sign, which has a beautifully carved image of Hanuman, the monkey king from the Ramayana (below).

Dancing & Trancing in Chiang Mai

2010-06-28T14:05:00.022+07:00

Presented as "Fohn-Pii or Ancestor Trance Dance", the recent ceremony at Chiang Mai's Arts and Culture Centre was a rare mass meeting of local shamans. The occasion was to honor the noble ancestor spirits of the Lan Na people, which included members of nobility, heroes and warriors as epitomized by the Three Kings whose monument graces the plaza in front of the Arts and Culture Centre.

A dancing pavillion was set up at the rear of the property and was quite a colorful scene when we arrived. Outside, a large number of non-participants milled around and watched those inside the packed structure, who were mostly shamans and their friends. Musicians playing traditional music added to the crowd. Offerings were arranged at one end of the building, as well as lined up on the floor in the middle where a line dance formed with the shamans brandishing bamboo sticks with a candle on the end.

In addition to dancing in trance, the mediums would also mimic the actions of their ancestral spirit, and of course were dressed appropriately. It was quite a fashion show with red being the preferred color, although many other colors and combinations were worn. Silk was the predominant fabric and was worn as skirts, blouses, headwraps, belts and shouldercloths. Accessories included pins for the hair, turbans, fans, flowers, pipes, and assorted forms of jewelry. Usually composed of matrilineal descent groups, the spirit cults here are predominantly female, tho this affair brought out transgender and gay male shamans as well.

A three day affair, this was the second day and designated as "Wan Fohn", or the day of trance dancing, with the dancing going on all day and well into the night, fueled with rice wine, cheroots, and assorted foods.

A large shrine beyond the pavillion served to both house offerings and act as a photographic background. We were excited to see the use of a 'phaa yan', or yantra textile, as a canopy over the main altar.

Watt's Up?

2010-05-31T10:32:00.004+07:00

The LA Times has a recent piece on the current status of Watt's Towers. This masterpiece of idiosyncratic urban art and architecture is once again threatened, but this time by neglect. Cuts in the city's arts budget have reduced not only the open days to three, but the hours and salary of a worker hired to make repairs; the long-time curator is taking early retirement due to funds cuts. Yet people from all over the world make pilgrimages here just to see the Towers. Why is it that there is always money to make war, but not for art?

Reds Take Flight From Bangkok

2010-05-30T14:02:00.000+07:00

I know it's now old news, but I couldn't resist posting this wonderful photo taken by Geoff Costley during the Red Shirt Occupation. Happy Vapor Trails!

May you live in interesting times

2010-05-19T20:44:00.002+07:00

How can one resist using this ancient curse when watching one's chosen home country dissolve into chaos? The photos from Bangkok are dire, as from a modern Hell, and now it's 'coming to a theater near you'! Of course, the Red Shirts were born here (San Kamphaeng/Chiang Mai), home of former PM Thaksin Shinawatra; in fact, just down the road from where we live. Why wouldn't they bring it home? But isn't it considered rather unintelligent to 'crap' in your own backyard? Is it not enough to put the world's media spotlight on your cause by trying to destroy the capital of your country?

Another cliche comes to mind: "How to win friends and influence people" - I can definitely say that it is not by using these tactics. Many around here (Thais and foreigners alike) have been suffering from Red Shirt Fatigue: plummeting tourism figures; lackluster economic growth; an uncertain future; reduced income; price hikes; loss of employment, etc. So, now with Chiang Mai having been a sanctuary of sorts from the chaos in Bangkok, we find ourselves also having to deal with their antics, including the ubiquitous burning of tires. Do we really need to enhance our reputation for air pollution?!?

For those interested in the thorny political particulars here in the 'Rose of the North' check out Chiang Mai Mail's page on Facebook for photos, comments and tweets. Thai Visa's minute-by-minute accounts from Bangkok have also been a very helpful way to keep up with events, especially if you know your way around Bangkok.

Any excuse for a party!

2010-05-10T22:49:00.005+07:00

Those of you following Thailand's political events will enjoy the CNN ireports of a friend of ours going by the nom de guerre 'Kozzli'. He's making daily, or almost daily, forays into the Red-Shirt encampment in the middle of the high rent retail district Rajprasong in Bangkok to bring us the very latest in the two month old saga of Those Who Eat Som Tam vs Those Who Do Not (watch his videos to find out...). It's an age-old saga of the disenfranchised 'Have Nots' taking on the 'Haves'- in Thailand better understood as New Money vs Old Money- with the Have Nots staking a claim to the color red and the Haves in yellow. (A new 'multicolor' is further muddying the water and strengthening the side of the Haves.) Kozzli does a great job of humanizing the new Bane of Bangkok. Even without scratch n' sniff one can smell the piles of durian baking in the sun, feel the closeness of the heat and humidity, and not help but move to the rhythm of 'mowlam', the music of Isaan. In his videos grandmas cook, kids are kids, and rabbits nibble. Check them out at CNN/ireports.

Chiang Mai Secret - Vichit's Studio

2010-04-23T14:33:00.014+07:00

Nobody expects a world class exhibition space with art from some of Thailand's most respected artists out in the rice fields of San Kamphaeng, but Vichit's Studio and Gallery is just that. It gives us great pleasure to have this special place not too far from our home. Vichit Chaiwong is well known in Chiang Mai art circles as the visionary behind the trendsetting Gong Dee Gallery on Nimmanhaemin Soi 1. Recently he decided to retire from the high profile life of the retail world and return to his roots- literally, to his family land among the rice fields, and also to his passion for painting. To this end, he created this new gallery and studio space next to his home, on 5 rai of land. Comprising a commodious light-filled 'art barn' and sculpture garden, it defies expectations in its design and content. The building is grandly proportioned and finely finished with marble floors, neutral-colored walls, huge movable wall panels for displaying art, and plentiful, but diffused, light from overhead skylights. All the walls display art, with one end wall also lined with shelves overflowing with art books. At the other end is a studio space with a scattering of easels and a constantly changing array of students' works in progress- Vichit (below at work) is also a teacher and welcomes aspiring artists of all ages to learn and work under his guidance (more about that in a later post). An island for coffee and a small shop area with cards, catalogs, books, jewelry and other artful objects completes the space, along with several groupings of comfortable seating.

Behind the main building, which runs perpendicular to the road, is a narrow, but long sculpture garden that looks out over an ever-changing landscape of rice fields with mountains in the background. Shaded by tall trees it is a quiet place for meditation among the art of both humans and Mother Nature. Every time I visit the view is different and one can really sense the earthbound rhythms which have given meaning to life in Thailand for so long, but which are becoming more and more difficult to find. Vichit usually joins me in the garden and delights in pointing out special plants, some of which have come from places distant from northern Thailand, or are unusual specimens of more common plants.

In addition to Vichit's beautiful and varied paintings (above and right) and found object sculptures, there are also works (below) by his friend and teacher, the late Uab Sanasen, sculptures by Steven Muthikul Jones, prints by Vorakorn Metmanorom, and photos by Angela Srisomwongwathana, among others. A grand piano in the studio gives mute testimony to the esteem given here to all the arts, and many of us are hoping for the reincarnation of the wonderful concerts and creative events formerly held at the Gong Dee Gallery. This is truly a very special and well-hidden Chiang Mai secret, but once found is not that difficult to find again, and again, and again. Call for directions, but remember that it's closed on Mondays: 053/392-733 www.vichitstudio.com

Democracy How?!?

2010-04-12T10:15:00.002+07:00

I'm tired of keeping my thoughts on the recent unpleasantness under wraps. A few of you have asked about the current situation in Thailand and, after observing for quite a while, I have a few, albeit rhetorical, questions for those who say they want democracy: What exactly is your definition of "democracy"? Are angry mobs making impossible demands really a demonstration of democracy? Do you represent the majority of Thailand's voters? If an election is held tomorrow, as you demand, will you actually vote without being paid to do so? If the former prime minister whose ouster you condemn would lose the election, would you be satisfied?

Being raised in a country that prides itself on its democratic institutions (but in actuality is a republic), I feel I can ask these questions. Our so-called "democracy" is far from perfect, and I am critical of it, but it is an institution that is based on the rule of law, not of mobs holding a city hostage for weeks on end. It took time to evolve and continues to do so. For Thailand to become democratic will also require an institutional foundation that begins with a basic education and understanding by the population of civics and the rule of law. Until that happens there will continue to be petty tyrants manipulating the population for their purposes. It saddens me to say that from this vantage point, this tunnel is long and there is no light at the end.

Let there be dark!

2010-01-19T22:21:00.006+07:00

This is the second eclipse within the the last few months and I almost missed it. Luckily we were alerted and ran outside to find it about one third over. It appeared to ultimately have a 65-70% coverage, here in the north of Thailand. I happened to be at the gallery/studio of an artist friend and we discovered an accidental, kinetic work of art on his front wall: a large tree between us and the sun acted as multiple pinhole cameras and projected the eclipse on the wall in numerous images which changed in a slow motion dance of shadow and light. It was quite surprising and beautiful. Here is one image.

Food for the Soul at La Bhu Salah

2009-11-02T22:59:00.008+07:00

At last! La Bhu Salah had their grand opening Halloween night and half of Chiang Mai turned out for it. Even the 45 minute drive out of town did not seem to deter the friends and fans- and everyone came ready to celebrate. Food and beer flowed, with Vatch's own version of 'sai ua'/Chiang Mai sausage a popular treat. Various artists had set up their work, with ceramics, batik, and printing on fabric some of the examples. Entertainment was varied and included performances by local Lan Na groups of dancers and musicians.

It was difficult to photograph that night, so we went back later in the daytime and were given a private tour by Vatch himself! Below, he is shown on the grass roof in front of his personal kitchen (shown below that).

The property is about 12 rai and ranges from the restaurant along the road (below),

to studios and accommodations behind, with a small road leading back to a hilltop 'sala' for meditation, a fire pit (below),

more accommodations, plus the spa, and also Vatch's house and kitchens.

The handsome painting (below), in the style of temple murals, is in the reception area and shows the property when finished and alive with people and activities.

The plan is to offer all kinds of classes- ceramics, batik, massage, as well as cooking classes in Vatch's personal kitchens. La Bhu Salah has been conceived as an artist's homestay - a rustic but artsy, rural retreat with the comforts of home.

This feeling is conveyed in the materials used: lots of dark-stained wood, including old railroad ties, plus unfinished concrete, and homespun textiles. Tho only a few months old, it has a timeworn feel that makes one instantly at home. As plantings mature and finishes age it will only get better. We predict that it will shortly become one of Chiang Mai's hottest venues and fear the day when we'll have to wait for a table for dinner.

Textile Travels

2009-10-29T17:20:00.009+07:00

October 25 found our textile group gathered for a daytrip to Studio Naenna's eco-weaving workshop south of Chom Thong for a demonstration of weft ikat, as well as other weaving they are doing in silk and cotton. Patricia Cheesman's Studio Naenna is justifiably well known for their wearable art, conservation of traditional textile techniques and patterns, and for Patricia's innovative ikat designs. What I hadn't realized is that they are producing weft ikat textiles, which are not native to this part of Thailand, thanks to the expertise of weavers brought from Isaan over twenty years ago. Her master weaver is Viroy Nanthapoom, who hails from Surin (shown here winding ikat wefts).

We were shown the winding process for the wefts prior to tying,

as well as the tying process.

It is a very complex, elaborate method of patterning fabric, and entails tying dye resists on the yarns before they are woven. The resists determine the pattern, and are re-tied for each color.

Then the yarns are put onto the shuttle and woven as the weft, with alignment carefully achieved by the weaver.

The Thai tubeskirts from Isaan are famous examples of this type of textile, as are the richly colored and patterned silks from Cambodia. Studio Naenna uses this technique to produce beautiful scarves, wall hangings and shawls for their shops, and for special orders.

We later visited Ban Rai Pai Ngam, further down the road.

Home of the Pa Saeng Da Textile Museum, it is one of my favorite textile sites in Thailand, and includes a verdant entry along a lane lined in beautiful bamboo, a fine old teak house with museum above and worker's looms below, outbuildings with facilities for dyeing and winding yarns, and a shop with their lovely products. They use primarily natural colors and produce textiles with warp ikat accents. Patricia explained that originally this technique was used by the local tribal people and not by the Tai people, but Mrs. Saeng-da Bansiddhi adapted the technique for her weaving cooperative's textiles and became famous for it. (Late in her life she was recognized as a Thai National Artist.)

Now it is widely used in the cottons produced in the Chom Thong area. We were treated to demonstrations of the process of making cotton into thread prior to weaving: ginning the seeds and impurities out, then rolling it so that it can be spun; spinning with a wheel; then winding the yarns on a 'niddy noddy'.

After satiating our textile appetite we stopped at Kao Mai Lan Na Resort on the way back for some snacks and libations. Formerly a site comprising acres of tobacco-drying barns, much of it has been converted into a lovely resort with the vine-covered barns renovated as guest rooms.

Their attractive restaurant is just off the main road, at km marker 29, making it an ideal rest stop.

Well and Truly Warped

2009-10-21T13:44:00.007+07:00

I finally did it! I went to Studio Naenna and learned how to weave on a backstrap loom. It felt like joining a sorority(sorry guys...), at least here, where weaving is still practiced as the most prominent women's art form. Join me in an armchair version of this rite of passage.

Day One - The first order of business was choosing my colors from a large selection of beautiful, naturally-dyed (by Studio Naenna) skeins and balls of commercial cotton threads- several shades of indigo, a soft sage green, two different brick reds, and a coffee color. We then took the chosen ones and submerged them in a starch mixture made from a large amount of heated water into which was dissolved a couple spoonfuls of taro flour- (rice flour can also be used). The skeins were stirred gently in the mixture to get it to adhere to all the threads, and then they were squeezed out and hung to dry overnight. Coating the thread is important especially for the warp yarns as it strengthens them for the rather taxing weaving process.

Days Two & Three - After drying, the threads are wound into balls, which are easier to work with in the weaving process. (Patricia noted that not all groups do it this way, nor is this done with silk.) The Karen use a handmade thread winder, called a "swift", comprising a 'wheel' made of string stretched between two large, springy 'X's made of bamboo slats. This contraption pegs into a 'U' shaped frame that sits on the floor and has a heavy, weighted base. Two skeins are positioned next to each other and a thread is drawn from each skein thus forming a 2 ply yarn. This process was the most frustrating for me: the threads stuck together and would occasionally break and frequently become tangled. I spent hours making just one small ball and could see myself doing this for days! Khun Saeng pitched in overnight and in a couple of days there were enough wound balls to begin the warping process.

Day Four - Creating the warp was something I was most curious about- I just couldn't fathom how the threads could be kept straight and ordered, nor how the heddles were created. But it all became known in short order! The equipment is very basic and the process is quite ingenious. We started with the warping board- simply a long two-by-four with holes of different sizes drilled along its length, into which were inserted bamboo and wood poles of various diameters, tho not all the holes were used. Starting on the left, is the end stick closest to the weaver when on the loom, followed by the slim "starting stick" which is where the textile really begins, followed by a fat bamboo tube around which the heddles would be strung, followed by a slim "shed" stick, and last was a tall rod which was the other end. The placement of the end sticks determines the length of the piece and the height of the sticks provides a limit to the width.

To form the warp, yarns from two balls were tied together and a process of looping and winding around the sticks formed the two different sets of warp yarns which would then form the sheds thru which the shuttle passes on the loom. This warping process creates a textile with a continuous warp: the threads must be cut to make it flat and it then opens to twice the length on the loom.

The heddles are formed with a dexterous movement that incorporates a loop of silky white thread, with each loop holding a warp yarn. These are used on the loom to suspend and then pick up each of the sets of warps. It's complex and simple at the same time!

To change colors, as I did, one simply tied in the end of a new color at the beginning stick, continuing the process to a desirable width, thus forming what will be stripes on the finished textile. This method of weaving creates a warp-faced weaving, meaning the wefts are hidden by the warp, so the colors of the warp are the visible colors on the textile. The 'back' of the warping rack was actually the top, or front, of the textile. The heddles are plainly visible on the back.

I didn't finish it all in one day, so left it overnight and 'wrapped' it up the next morning. This is not advisable. The best way to do it is to finish the warping in one day and then get it onto the loom. Languishing overnight allows it to move and shift in response to humidity, of which we have much at this time of year. And it did create some problems in the tension once weaving began. Live and learn.

Day Five - Once the warping was finished, Saeng and Lamorna showed me how it is transferred to the loom.

It's really just a brilliant process of substituting sticks! For the heddles a smaller rod was inserted into the bamboo warping tube and the bamboo slipped out (above). Other rods, such as the starter stick, were kept. The end closest to the starter stick was sandwiched between two takeup sticks, and the opposite end was fitted with a long, fat wooden rod that can be attached to an immovable object (Saeng uses the railing balusters). Now we're ready to rock n' roll!

The backstrap comes into play here, and is an important piece of equipment. Going around the back of the weaver's waist, it connects via cords on each end to the takeup sticks, and must be positioned correctly, with adequate room to move and adjust the tension, but not too much.

The other important aspect to the tensioning is the position of the weaver's feet. Some backstrap looms, such that of the Meifu Li, utilize rods with foot paddles, around which the warp is looped. The weaver's leg length pretty much determines the length of the textile, tho some of it can be wound round the takeup sticks allowing a longer warp than the length of her legs would imply. The Karen (Saeng's ethnic group), and other groups attach the warp end to something immovable, in front of which is placed something that the feet can push on to change the tension. The feet work in tandem with the weaver's back, as she leans forward and back to make certain movements allowing her to open sheds and insert the shuttle.

For a simple textile like mine, the weaving part was a basic matter of getting the sheds opened up completely and inserting the shed stick without missing warp threads. Then the shuttle carrying the weft thread is passed thru the opening of the sheds and the weft is beaten down with the sword stick. This is a dual purpose piece of equipment: its pointed end allows it to move thru the shed, parting the warps, and then turned parallel to the weaver, it props open the shed; after the shuttle goes thru the shed, it is turned flat and used to beat the wefts tight. When a warp thread, or two, is missed it results as a small flaw in the weaving, as shown here.

Other easy to make mistakes (I made them all, and continue to do so) have to do with tensioning, and with getting the weft threads beaten in a tight and uniform manner. For those who subscribe to the theory that handmade articles should have a flaw to show the human touch, this piece will be full of humanity!

Antik Batik

2009-10-12T22:00:00.006+07:00

We've just posted a page of eye candy from Java and Sumatra: antique and vintage batiks in luscious colors, rich pattern, and a variety of prices. The one pictured above is a 'Hokokai' that was made during the Japanese occupation of 1942-5. These batik cloths were made when cotton was scarce and had to be brought in from Japan. Ours exemplifies the use of contrasting floral and geometric patterns in unusual color combinations. Drawn by hand ('tulis'), the wild pattern belies the seriousness of the times. Check out our page for more examples of this exuberant textile art.

Still here . . .

2009-10-06T22:14:00.002+07:00

We're still here, but have been having internet problems which make any posting efforts frustrating. Most recently, we have been catching up after Robert's return from the US where he was able to properly celebrate his mother's 95th birthday. We both feel so fortunate that she's still around to share her wisdom and good humor- we only wish we weren't so far away.

And this week, our thoughts have been with those in Padang, Sumatra. It's been 12 years since we were there, but the memories are still quite fresh. It is the gateway to West Sumatera and was the embarkation and departure point for our interesting adventure into Minangkabau country. Lake Maninjau, and Lake Toba to the north, are reminders of the earth's past volatility in this region, and sadly this earthquake brings it home in the present.

Scoop!

2009-08-10T15:51:00.005+07:00

You read it here first! Well, probably... We have recently learned that a new resort, east of Chiang Mai and near the hot springs, will be opening in October. Called La Bhu Salah, it is conceived as an "artist's homestay" and will feature art studios for ceramics and painting under the guidance of Khun Ouan, formerly of Maesa Valley Resort. Additionally, it will offer the culinary expertise of the famous Thai chef and cookbook author Vatcharin Bhumichitr (Vatch) who will be overseeing the kitchen as well as giving cooking classes. YES! Vatch's books are my favorite Thai cookbooks and the one on Southeast Asian food is really an armchair travel book full of wonderful photos and commentary. He originally went to London to study graphic design in the 70's and continues to make prints (below). We'll go armed with a camera soon and have more to show.

La Bhu Salah
The Artist's Homestay
85/1 Moo 2, Baan Sahakorn
Mae On
Chiang Mai
66/53/037-109
080/670-9695

Who Knew?!?

2009-07-27T11:25:00.005+07:00

We were back out at Dokmai Gardens last week and were surprised to see Dragonfruit growing: on a trellis, almost like a succulent or cactus with the fruit at the end of a long, thorny stalk. Amazing! Of course, these fruit are almost surreal anyway, cloaked in a waxy, almost-plastic skin of hot pink. When I first saw them in the basket of a walking fruit vendor I couldn't believe my eyes- they seemed to epitomize the exotic Orient!

Thai 'Smailes'

2009-07-27T11:20:00.002+07:00

Let there be light!

2009-06-11T13:22:00.008+07:00

And Color! A feast for the eyes, friend Patricia Cheesman's latest collection of contemporary woven art is titled 'Woven Sunbeams' and beautifully captures in silk the changing light on the sea of her childhood memories. Conceived by Patricia and woven by master weaver Viroy Nanthapoom, each piece is a rich composition in color and texture. The luminosity of the silk and varied thread thickness make it the perfect medium for conveying the changing reflections of the sun on water. The ten wallhangings are nicely framed in compatibly-colored silk and are also complemented by two long, elegant runners/shawls and two handsome rugs for those special barefoot places.

The lovely blue composition on the wall above is of a very fine, smooth silk and must be seen up close (below) to fully appreciate the subtle colorations, tho from a distance it is equally stunning. One of the handsome rugs/floor mats is in the foreground- these can be custom made in special colors.

Photos do not do justice to the beauty of these works- if you are in Chiang Mai, do see them before 20 June, at Studio Naenna in Chiang Kian.

Chemins Du Monde visits Chiang Mai

2009-06-08T11:35:00.009+07:00

No, it's not a circus group or French travel newspaper- rather it's an intrepid couple in a revitalized Citroen delivery van who are traveling the world and, luckily for all of us, documenting their adventures. Robert happened on them at our mechanic's shop and brought home this card. We intend to check their website frequently and see how their trip is going.

Here they are in Chiang Mai at J&N Auto, who offered them the hospitality of water and electricity and the company of lots of funny old cars. We missed meeting them by minutes, but wish them 'chok dee mahk mahk'/bonne chance/much good luck and Happy Trails!

Wrapped Up in Art - Wattana Wattanapun

2009-05-25T16:15:00.007+07:00

It's not always easy to catch Wattana. He has friends all over the world from teaching and exhibiting his art, and he travels widely. We were fortunate to recently spend a pleasant Sunday afternoon visiting him at his home/gallery/studio in the verdant neighborhood at the base of Doi Suthep. Wattana is justifiably well known for his original approach to painting and his creative use of traditional culture, specifically textiles, to convey a timely range of subject matter. Painting on a variety of materials, including bamboo blinds, furniture and objects, as well as engraving on stainless steel, he often uses female forms enveloped in the rich texture of traditional textiles to evoke the corruption of the cultural environment and to make us question the nature of beauty.

Usually the textiles depicted are in the form of the ubiquitous 'phaa sin', or tubeskirt, which is still worn here for ceremonial occasions. He blankets female forms with it, often smothering them in sinuous, finely patterned stripes of rich color and ominous black. In some works the body is totally obscured by the fabric, with only the folds and curves of the stripes giving it form.

Some new works on stainless steel play games with the idea of the pliability of cloth by depicting it on cold, smooth, flat steel; backlighting makes it even colder and less tactile as the panels seem to float, out of reach, on the wall.

Thailand's cultures are numerous, and are especially rich here in the north. But all cultures are not equal, with what he calls "marginal cultures", and especially females, vulnerable to exploitation and greed by the dominant cultures. His work uses the inherent symbolism of the textiles, which is almost innately known here, and makes us think about how the minorities of gender and ethnicity are affected by the cultural majority. It's strong stuff, but rendered with beauty, sensitivity, and hopefulness.

Wattana's home is a gallery, with innovative, movable wall panels, each covered with framed works of art so that one can get a full view of the range of his oeuvre over the years. He has made prints, painted with acrylics, water colors, used mixed media, and is now engraving steel. If you're in Chiang Mai and want to be inspired, or just feast your eyes, call Wattana for an appointment to visit. You may even find a textile-covered muse to take home with you!

Wattana Wattanapun
Home/Gallery
100/1 Soi Wat Umong
Moo 10, T. Suthep, A. Muang
Chiang Mai
66/053/278-747
089/429-1883

Chiang Mai Secret - Dok Mai Garden

2009-05-17T23:12:00.006+07:00

This week I spent an enjoyable afternoon touring Dok Mai Garden, south of Chiang Mai. As with so many of the best things in life, this is the result of following ones' bliss. Both Khun Ketsanee and her husband Eric, a botanist, are dedicated growers, nurturers, and thankfully, educators in that they want to share their knowledge and gardening experience, and have opened their project to the public for that purpose. Cultivated for barely three years now, it has some thriving specimens which show just how quickly things grow here in the tropics. Some of the plants are rare in Thailand, as exemplified by the one on the cover of their brochure: a citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, known as 'Buddha's Hand' and used in China as a special offering on altars. Evidently this plant has attracted the attention of local Thais, and many have visited the garden just to see this one plant. But there's so much more in their 24 rai, or 9 acre, garden: over 700 different plants, including 125 different vegetables and 90 species with edible fruits or nuts. One area is designed with special plants solely to attract butterflies; another area enclosed in black rods and 'guarded' by a menacing statue of a snarling lion contains only toxic plants, some of which are dangerous to even touch(!). I particularly liked their open-minded attitude about all living creatures, pests included, which entails using nature to fend off predators. Fertilizer is also natural, with much of it provided by a handsome pair of water buffalo. I saw many plants that I'd never seen before, such as that which supplies us with the wonderful white Thai peppercorns called 'phrik Thai' in their dried form; in their fresh form they are what the French refer to as 'poivre vert', or green peppercorns, and are also used in Thai cooking. I must get one now that I know what to look for! I was also pleasantly surprised to see several fruit-bearing cashew nut trees, from which I gleaned a souvenir to bring home to Robert to plant. There were many more surprises, but you'll just have to go and find your own!

Dok Mai Garden is open every day, but it is suggested that you call ahead and let them know you're coming. They have a website, and their phone number is 66/089/433-9045. A nice garden restaurant, and shop with botanical literature and fine crafts add to the experience.

Songs of Memory; Traditional Music of the Golden Triangle

2009-04-27T13:32:00.021+07:00

We just returned from Bangkok and the opening of friend Victoria Vorreiter's multi-media exhibition at the Jim Thompson House and Gallery. For about 5 years now she has been documenting the traditional music of the tribal groups living in the border region of Laos, Burma, and Thailand, known as the Golden Triangle. Using video and recordings, she hopes to produce a DVD later this year, but for this exhibition she prepared a CD of the music, still photographs, short video clips for each tribe, and a book. I was honored to be involved with the production of the book, which made its debut at the exhibit (cover above). At over 200 pages, it had evolved into a bit more than just an exhibition catalog and includes, in addition to Victoria's evocative prose and still photos of the tribal people, artful photos of the instruments (by Galen Garwood), and an archive showing each instrument and its pertinent details. I will have books available, so write me via our website if you're interested.

The opening was a huge celebration and included four tribal musicians who charmed the 'hi-so' set with their considerable talent. From left are Chi (Karen harp master and well known vocalist), a lady Akha singer and leaf virtuoso,
Victoria, Aju (Akha master musician of many instruments and protector of Akha
culture), and a Lisu musician/dancer/performer extraordinaire.

A contingent of friends from Chiang Mai also made the journey and helped out with the dressing of the mannequins. Here, the winding of a Mien woman's turban required the expertise and four hands of Nussara and Rin.

Most of the instruments were displayed in special, custom-made modules which even included drawers that opened to reveal small pieces such as mouth harps. A listening and viewing station was also included for each group.

Costumes for each of the six tribes were displayed along a side wall and were adjacent to the appropriate instrument displays. Tho Victoria has documented the music of more groups, this exhibition and book were limited to the Karen, Hmong, Mien, Lahu, Akha, and Lisu. In the photo below, on the right, are Lisu tseubeu in the case with Karen harps and clothing in the background (Lisu costumes are to the left, but not in the photo). Below, to the left, are shown Lahu free reed pipes in the cabinet, with their clothing and a bossed gong along the wall. A group of Akha outfits are below, with the large bamboo beaters used by hunters in the corner.

Many attendees wore tribal dress, and the group of friends below showed off a variety of ethnic attire and accessories from different places in the region including China, Burma, Laos, Thailand, and even India.

Below, Rin, Dtoy, and Nussara are resplendent in Hmong/Miao and Mien pieces from China and Thailand.

For more information on Victoria's current project, and a past one on the traditional music of Morocco, go to her website. The photo galleries are a real treasure trove of tribal people, their clothes and milieu. Also see the Jim Thompson House website for information about the exhibition and more photos. This 'must-see' show will be up until 23 July, 2009, so if you find yourself in Bangkok, don't miss it.

Red: the new Yellow

2009-04-13T20:46:00.002+07:00

It's deja vu all over again. A little over four months after the last uprising against 'the Government' we now have people in red shirts wreaking havoc in Bangkok, not unlike that wrought by people in yellow shirts back in November and December, and with the same goal- that of overthrowing the current government. At least these folks haven't taken over the airports. But they might as well have, considering the blow made to Thai tourism. First, they broke thru the lines of soldiers providing, albeit lackadaisically, 'security' to the ASEAN summit meeting in Pattaya, and then broke into the hotel and completely disrupted the impending summit session, forcing it to cancel and the regional national leaders to leave by helicopter. Taken to a nearby military base from which they left for their home countries, the leaders will no doubt have second thoughts about visiting Thailand again. To say that Thailand, and the PM, have suffered a huge embarrassment is an understatement.

Empowered by the 'success' of their Pattaya adventure, the red-shirted protesters went back to Bangkok and took over key intersections, along with attempts to take over the Interior Ministry and Government House. They called for 'open season' on the PM and other members of Parliament and, in the attempt to 'catch' the PM, managed to inflict serious injury to members of his staff, justifying their zeal with slogans and speeches about "real democracy" and the overthrow of this illegal government.

To anyone not keeping up too closely, this is really confusing-- it sounds just like what went on late last year, but the color du jour then was yellow. This year, the yellow shirts have been put away since the old government in fact captiulated and the new government was basically to their liking. Now in office for a few months only, the new government is under threat by the sour grapes faction that liked the old government and is being encouraged and funded by exiled former PM Taksin Shinawatra. Sporting red shirts, it has gathered strength from all the poor and disenfranchised around the country, especially the north and northeast.

So, what is the next color to find favor, you ask? We don't know, but we are wearying of the childish, but dangerous, behavior that is being encouraged by the lack of accountability. To give in to this mob rule only empowers and rewards simplistic political thinking. These mobs do not represent the majority and their tactics are in no way democratic. We have heard from several sources that many of these protestors are well-paid. The timing is also carefully considered, as many are off work for the Songkran/Thai New Year vacation, and are available for these extra-curricular activities. Had this type of behavior been dealt with the last time, when the perpetraitors wore yellow, the new perpetraitors in red might have given more thought to their actions. It seems to be a vicious cycle of colored shirts, each doing their part to undermine their country, all mis-using and abusing the term "democracy". When will it end?!?

Wonders Never Cease

2009-03-31T22:02:00.003+07:00

Today, on the way into town I was surprised out of my expat complacency by this amazing sight.

Good Riddance

2009-01-20T12:00:00.000+07:00

Need I say more?

Just Kidding Around

2009-01-13T16:50:00.002+07:00

December's gathering of the faithful, our informal textile group, occurred at the lovely home of Siripan and Tony Kidd, where we were treated to a visual feast of Siripan's artful quilts. Like a fish out of water when she first moved to England, Siripan found her creative voice by pairing the traditional medium of quilting and handsewing, with the gorgeous Thai silk of her homeland. As an early docent at the Jim Thompson house and a fan of the company's famous wares, she collected rolls of remnant silk and began using it to make pieced quilts. She became aware of the unique sheen of silk and how to use its directional light-reflecting qualities to give her pieces even more life than just that imparted by the glorious colors. Combining that with her unique "rice grain" stitches for texture gives her work an almost painterly quality.

Here she is joined by husband Tony in displaying a piece inspired by weather pattern diagrams. Another piece (below) in 'cool' colors evokes the Suffolk winters and is titled accordingly. Here the very beautiful texture is readily apparent, along with the sheen of the silk.

Most of Siripan's work is abstract and Modernist: influences could be Modigliani, Arp and other notable 20thc. modern painters, tho she doesn't cite anyone specific. Her recent work has become more conceptual and three-dimensional, challenging the definitions of quilting and using it as a very 21st century artistic medium.

In addition to her quilts, Siripan offers workshops in textile art at her home, and also leads textile tours around this region. Check her website for more information.

If you are in interested in our informal textile-related activities, contact me to get on our email list.

"I like seal meat better"

2008-12-12T22:28:00.003+07:00

It's curious to see American corporate imperialism show up in the guise of "hamburger taste tests" in remote areas of the world, and even more curious to see it come to Chiang Mai. Somehow they managed to find a Hmong village within 15 minutes of a Burger King and a MacDonald's here. That the Hmong villagers who participated had never had a hamburger is not surprising at all, even tho Chiang Mai has had both franchises for at least ten years and in multiple locations. Nothing about a hamburger except maybe the tomato and lettuce would be familiar to them: bread is not part of their diet; ground meat patties (if you can even call it 'meat') are unknown; and the requisite sauces are boring compared to locally available condiments. The cost alone would not allow them to indulge in such dietary adventurism. And it's just as well. They eat far more healthily and sustainably than most Americans, as do probably most of the other remote groups sought out by the taste testers. Lets hope that this publicity exercise remains just that and does not influence these people to alter their diets. Maybe it will even make those conducting the tests reconsider their eating habits after trying the home cooking of their subjects...maybe.

(I would normally include a link to the site showing the video for these so-called taste tests, but it's getting enough press lately and I just don't feel like contributing to it- check out Huffington Post among other sites. Other regions visited include Romania and Greenland- where seal is the meat of choice.)

That Was The Week That Was

2008-12-05T16:46:00.002+07:00

With the airports getting back to functionality after more than a week of chaos and economic ruination, everyone was avidly awaiting the King's annual birthday speech, only to have their hopes dashed-- the Crown Prince and Princess Sirindhorn announced that he was ill with a sore throat and would not be able to speak. This is most unfortunate, as his wisdom and guidance are very much needed at this time. We wish the King a speedy recovery and many more birthdays to come. Long Live the King!

Face Saved All Around

2008-12-03T22:09:00.002+07:00

At last! The outrageous occupation of the airports in Bangkok appears to have ended and in true Thai style, an army of cleaners will swoop in and business will quickly get back to normal. Except that this high season there will be fewer visitors, with many having canceled their trips, or at least the part that included Thailand. And that will trickle down to many businesses and people living close to the edge. The high fuel costs during the summer already had dealt a blow to tourism, and the global economic downturn was also having its effects. The tourists coming this high season had booked before all that, but next year will definitely feel the economic effects of this year. And now next year's tourist season will also reflect the recent insanity with even fewer potential visitors willing to risk having their vacation ruined by political unrest. Face-saving is as superficial as face makeup. There still should be some accountability for the holding hostage of a country and hundreds of thousands of guests in, or planning to visit, that country. Normally I do not advocate the litigious route, but in this case with so many billions of baht having been lost by this calculated act of terrorism, it seems only just. Sadly, it will not compensate those on the lower reaches of the 'trickle down', but it might make the perpetraitors think twice before trying this again.

May We Live In Interesting Times

2008-12-02T17:24:00.002+07:00

The cliche continues. The airport is still occupied by the PAD, who have run off the police, and have admitted to planning to use women and children as human shields if need be. I'm finding the best information is coming from various blogs, rather than the mainstream press: Bangkok Pundit is compiling articles from various sources and adding intelligent commentary.

One of his sources is a very interesting blog by a British expat who decided to see what the PAD occupation of Government House was all about back in September. It gives some insight into who the protesters are and why they are participating in this exercise. He likens it to "visiting a temple fair through the back door... the only thing...missing were the fairground rides". And his photos show Thais happily posing in all manner of yellow garb and a site that looks like an urban campsite. Evidently, for many Thais it is seen as "historic" and safely rebellious (the 'safe' part may have required reconsideration after the occasional lobbing of bombs at the site). But, as he was leaving the site, a comparison with the "Wild Wild West" was more appropriate as he witnessed PAD guards beating someone with iron rods.

This situation is clearly a study in contradictions, beginning with the name of the group. Their true agenda appears to be hidden in a barrage of patriotic cheerleading and emotional rhetoric. The silence from the leader to whom they pay lip service will hopefully end this week, and maybe the insanity will also end. Stay tuned.

Democracy: PAD-style

2008-11-29T22:58:00.005+07:00

As most of the world knows, the two airports in Bangkok are under siege by an anti-government group ironically called ‘People’s Alliance for Democracy’, aka PAD, or ‘yellow-shirts’ (their opposition, the pro-government group wears red shirts), which is demanding the resignation of the Prime Minister. They have forced the cancellation of hundreds of flights and effectively ruined Thailand’s image internationally, as well as much of the economy which is largely based on tourism and exports. Thousands of travelers were stranded, and many others have had to cancel plans to come to Thailand. The PAD has now been there for over four days and shows no signs of leaving unless their demand is met. The PM's response has been to declare a State of Emergency and state that he has no intention to step down. If this situation continues, Thailand can forget about hosting the upcoming ASEAN summit in mid-December. There are predictions of 500,000 to 1,000,000 jobs being lost in the tourism sector due to cancellations, loss of business, etc., and that doesn’t take into account jobs in other areas that will be jeopardized by the loss of business (shipping companies, companies dependent on import or export for just a few examples). In addition to shipping being affected, even the mail has been affected- we’ve not had any for four days and certainly do not want to try to send anything.

Clearly this is not a laughing matter, BUT one does need take a break from the insanity, and in considering just how the removal of several thousand entrenched protesters from the airport might be accomplished we found some novel suggestions on www.thaivisa.com:

- offer free som tam (a spicy salad of shredded green papaya from Isaan) outside to lure them out (this ignores the fact that the people from Isaan are more likely supporters of the government)
- send in 500 of the most virile male elephants in heat and mist the site with female elephant urine
- offer the protesters 1000B each to leave
- send in all the stray ‘soi’ dogs in the city to flush out the demonstrators
- send in the cobras; a sequel to the film ‘Snakes on a Plane’ called ‘Snakes in an Airport’
- get them drunk on free beer and let them fight each other
- make Don Mueang the international airport again and lock the protesters in Suvarnabhumi to stew for a few years

Stay tuned!

We don't have to pretend to be Canadian anymore!

2008-11-06T08:31:00.000+07:00

During the last eight years, as expats we have on occasion had to claim citizenship other than American, and given our appearance and language, found Canadian to be the safest and most convenient. No offense intended to our Canadian friends, but maybe now we can admit to being American without embarrassment or risk. The election of Barack Obama gives us new hope for our country, and its place in the world. We now have hope for an end to the artificial divisions conjured up by partisan manipulators and hatemongers; hope for dialogue with our foes, and therefore negating the need for preemptive military actions; hope for renewed respect for the value of education, science, and art; hope for restoring the rule of law as written in the Constitution, not as interpreted by sycophantic ‘wannabes’; hope for the elevation of ethics and moral behavior in government and corporate America (tho this may be Great Expectations!); and hope for an improved perception of our country by the rest of the world- one based on the good that we do, and an end to the bad and the ugly. This may be asking a lot of one man, but this one man has already achieved much in breaching the hurdles of our culture. His accomplishments have given us the opportunity to dare to be optimistic. My biggest hope is that we are not asking too much.

Shakin' Shamans

2008-11-03T10:11:00.002+07:00

Just to remind us of the global concern about the US elections, here are some Peruvian shamans with meaningful moves. Oh, and they're overwhelmingly in favor of Obama. Shake a tail feather!

Happy Chulalongkorn Day!

2008-10-23T09:33:00.005+07:00

Today memorializes the death of one of the greatest kings of Siam - Rama V, or Phra Chula Chomklao Chaoyuhua as his royal name is designated, or simply 'King Chulalongkorn'. The Western world knows him best from the movie 'The King and I'. Born in 1853, he died in 1910 and was the fifth king of the Chakri dynasty (the current king, Bhumipol, is the ninth). It is not without merit that the Thais also call him "The Great Beloved King"; he made many modern changes to government (such as establishing provinces and districts as are used today), abolished slavery, maintained independence despite regional colonization by Britain and France, was the first Thai ruler to travel to Europe (twice), and allowed religions other than Buddhism to be practiced. During his rule the first railroad was constructed (from Bangkok to Ayuthaya), the traditional lunar calendar was replaced with the Gregorian calendar, and the modern monetary system of banknotes was introduced. He was well-educated and well-traveled, with studies abroad in Singapore, Java and India, as well as the trips to Europe, and fittingly the best university in Thailand is named after him.

We in the north of Thailand also celebrate the link to King Chulalongkorn of the Lan Na Princess Jao Dara Rasami. As a favorite consort and the daughter of a Chiang Mai king, she was instrumental in joining the northern kingdom of Lan Na with that of Siam (for more about this please see the informative article in 'Welcome to Chiangmai & Chiangrai'). Her last home is located north of the city and is open to the public.

Tools as Art

2008-09-30T13:06:00.008+07:00

We have recently added a page of extraordinary, old weaving tools from Cambodia: beautiful brushes for applying starch to silk threads or for cleaning them when weaving, plus a nice collection of loom pulleys, many of which are in pairs. The loom pulleys are charmingly carved by young men for young women in whom they have a romantic interest, with the imagination and skill of the carving suggesting their competency as a husband. The bird shown here should have wowed any woman, young or old! These utilitarian objects are wonderful examples of folk art and convey strong cultural beliefs and values.

yIKEs!

2008-09-14T22:56:00.002+07:00

Our thoughts are with all our friends in the Houston area as they recover from hurricane Ike. We've been there, done that, and it's no fun. Hope you're all well and that things get back to normal very soon.

I'm Baaack!

2008-09-07T19:16:00.009+07:00

After a long and productive trip to the US, I'm back in the Land o' Smiles and attempting to catch up. I owe many friends, acquaintances, and family 'krup khun khas' for all the good meals, guide and chauffeur services, and generous assistance. It wouldn't have been much fun without y'all! Robert thanks you too!

While in DC I visited a favorite museum, the Sackler Asian and African (now the National Museum of African Art) galleries, which are part of the Smithsonian, and was surprised to find a show of the work of El Anatsui. Born in Ghana, but living and teaching in Nigeria since 1975, he recycles a variety of materials into compelling artworks which address his heritage, consumerism, and society's ills, among other things. I was originally introduced to his work at the Harn Museum at the University of Florida, where one of his 'cloths' hangs on permanent display (my photo below).

Made of wired-together metal strips from the necks and tops of liquor bottles that were to be recycled, it is huge, richly textured, and sensuous - all belying the fact that it is made of rigid, unwanted materials. The rich metallic color brings to mind Ghana's famous goldsmith traditions, and its composition of strips gives a nod to the strip-woven cloth of Ghana, called 'kente' (which his brothers and father made as Ewe weavers) . This is even more apparent in a work in a show catalog that I picked up:

Even with these acknowledgements of his origins and that inherent meaning, El Anatsui's work very eloquently speaks a universal language of beauty, creative and meaningful use of materials, and form. More information on this show, the artist and the work is available here. For a fine example of an Ewe kente cloth please see ours here.

More food porn

2008-06-03T12:31:00.003+07:00

Good friend Emily Swantner, of Epicurean Odyssey fame, just sent these photos from a food tour of Thailand by her Thai cooking instructor Kasma Loha-unchit. (If you understand Thai, mouseover the photos for the Thai names of the dishes. ) Kasma teaches in California, does food tours of Thailand, and has two wonderful cookbooks to her credit: It Rains Fishes and Dancing Shrimp. Her website is loaded with information on the glorious food from the Land o' Smiles.

Chiang Mai Secret Eats...

2008-05-25T16:54:00.005+07:00

This secret is making the rounds by word of mouth, which is how I learned about it. Tucked into a small courtyard behind Monk Chat at Wat Suan Dok is one of Chiang Mai's best Thai restaurants: Pun Pun. Specializing in organic, vegetarian food, they grow many of the ingredients on their farm in Mae Taeng, north of town. The dishes are prepared with a light touch and beautifully presented. A true feast for the eyes, as well as the stomach, is the salad of edible flowers, shown here with avocado dressing.

Another dish we recently enjoyed there, with friend Pooh, was 'Laab Dao Hu', or 'laab' salad made with tofu. 'Laab' is a spicy mixture from Isaan (NE Thailand) of meat, or in this case tofu, shallots, mint, chilis, lemongrass, lime leaves, and a light dressing. We also had a very substantial tofu 'steak' with a creamy green peppercorn sauce and some stir-fried vegetables on the side. Their wonderful red rice accompanied the entrees as an extra.

On another occasion I had an exceptional Banana Flower Salad and Wing Bean Salad, plus a nicely filling Mussaman curry with pineapple, and accompanied by roti. Recent price increases have put some dishes up to 50 baht, but most are 40, which is very good value, especially for the quality.

More information about the admirable efforts of these folks in the field of sustainable living and agriculture is available on their website and includes a page about the restaurant.

Burma Cyclone Conundrum

2008-05-24T10:08:00.002+07:00

Sorry for the silence. We are catching up after the Holidaze. However, we have avidly watched the situation in Burma in the aftermath of Cyclone/Hurricane Nargis and want to share a very good, up to date source of information: The Irrawaddy News Magazine. It is a periodical published here in Chiang Mai and available online at the link provided. They have a rather unique perspective as Burmese exiles.

Textiles of the Tai Lue at the Bank of Thailand

2007-12-20T18:13:00.051+07:00

This venue almost qualifies as a Chiang Mai 'secret'... hidden behind the huge main building of the Bank of Thailand on the road to Mae Rim, this beautifully conceived and executed museum houses two collections linked by the common thread of commerce. One exhibit is as expected for a bank: coins and their early equivalents (cowries, beads, clay spindles and weights). The other contains textiles from the region, which were an important commodity in trade. I often take visitors here to see this high quality collection, which is available for viewing during bank hours, but the current exhibition is only up for less than a month and deserves special mention. It opened the other night with high ceremony including dancing girls, and guys, traditional music and food galore. Everyone dressed in their best Tai Lue or traditional attire.

A traditional dance of welcome was performed by dancers in vibrant Tai Lue skirts with silk blouses, and ended with a carpet of golden flower petals gracefully strewn onto the green lawn. Lan Na music performed on traditional instruments was a fitting accompaniment. The opening ceremony concluded with the cutting of the ribbon and photographers jockeying for position around the exhibition spaces.

Regarding textiles, one thinks immediately of costume, but in this region certain other genres of textiles are important as well. One of my favorite is that of 'tung', or ceremonial banners that are hung vertically in temples, outside of buildings, or along village roads. The Tai Lue make especially beautiful 'tung' and several nice groupings were on show. (We also have some fine examples available in our Textiles/Thailand section, including one in silk on cotton).

Of the costumes, there was a large variety as befits an ethnic group that has migrated to many different areas. Still, there are distinctive commonalities as can be seen from these photos. One thing always seen is that their tubeskirts comprise two panels sewn together with two side seams, unlike most tubeskirts worn in this region which only have one side seam. This causes stripes in the designs to be horizontal because they have been worked in the weft during the weaving.

They are also known for using the technique of tapestry weave on their tubeskirts and the piece below shows a particularly exuberant example (note the jagged lines bordering the diamonds).

It was also interesting to see an example of the mysterious 'yantra' textiles being used by the Tai Lue. It appears to have writing in the Lan Na language and sports a very nice rendering of entwined nagas. These textiles were used for protection from malevolent forces and are associated with magic and mysterious spells. We have been collecting and studying them for a number of years and offer some here.

Another genre of textile made famous by the Tai Lue are finely woven bed coverings, which were well represented by the striking pieces grouped here. (An example that we have available is here.)

To round it out, the finale was indeed grand, with dances featuring a 'kinnara' and 'kinnaree' (half human, half bird creatures from mythology)... It made me think I'd died and gone to heaven!

Details: The Bank of Thailand, Northern Region Office,
68/3 Chotana Rd., Chiang Mai
053/931-182 or 183
Open: Monday-Friday 9-12 and 1-4pm (except bank holidays)
It's recommended to call ahead and let them know that you would like to see the collection.

Secret Chiang Mai - 'Lan Na Traditional Houses Museum'

2007-11-20T15:17:00.003+07:00

This is the first in what I hope will be a series of 'secret' places, or people, or whatever, that we discover in our explorations around Chiang Mai and Thailand. After all, one of the main reasons for moving here was to have the time to get below the surface of the place and the culture. It's taken some time, but Chiang Mai is beginning to yield its secrets.

Under the wing of the Chiang Mai University's Fine Arts Department, and the vision of Ajan Vithi Phanichphant, this lovely collection of old Lan Na houses has been assembled behind the CMU Art Museum on a verdant site. Once part of a large farm surrounding an early 20thc. colonial style house (formerly the home of a representative of the Bombay Burma Company) the site now features seven other northern Thai vernacular houses, including a Tai Lue home, two 'galae' houses, a typical merchant's house from the Anusarn area downtown, and a very nice rice storage barn.

Under the elegantly designed rice granary is a small, but good assemblage of old carts and long drums. Intact carts are rarely seen these days, as they are usually disassembled for their decorative carvings and wooden wheels.

Some of the buildings are occupied, while others are used for special events. We enjoy visiting Lung Daeng, an artist with a studio underneath the small 'galae' house, and usually find him working on a variety of projects such as teaching batik to a group of students, growing and brewing natural dyes, or creating his own paintings under the watchful eyes of several dogs and cats.

It's also worth noting that every first Tuesday and Wednesday there is a market of traditional handmade products and produce in the yard beside the colonial house (along the Canal Road), sponsored by the Center for the Promotion of Arts and Culture of CMU. One can visit the old houses daily from 8:30am-6:00pm.

Oolong in Mae Salong

2007-10-25T16:27:00.011+07:00

This month we took a break and headed north to Mae Salong, the Kuomintang town near the Burmese border. Famous for the oolong tea grown there, the town is really a village stretched out along the ridge of a small mountain, and is known for its resemblance to Yunnanese villages in China. The tea plantations fill the steep slopes below the town and the hills around them are peppered with tribal villages, no doubt providing much of the labor for tea-picking. It's quite a bit cooler up here, with the mountains blanketed in mist in the mornings. The main street is lined with teashops and the oolong flows, so keeping warm is no problem.

We stayed at Mae Salong Villa which has grown into a sprawling, hillside-hugging collection of concrete structures - no longer the quaint bungalows described in Lonely Planet. But the room was comfortable and had the added charm of a nice covered veranda with a view of the tea plantations.

In this area the KMT history goes back to 1961, when a group from this anti-Communist army was forced to leave Burma, to which they'd fled after the 1949 Communist victory in China. They crossed into northwestern Thailand and were granted refugee status later in the 1960's, as the Thai government needed a buffer army against any possible Communist incursions into Thailand. Between 1970 and '74 they fought their bloodiest operation against the Communists and lost close to 1000 soldiers. For this the Thai government bestowed citizenship on many of the soldiers and their families. A large Martyr's Temple which gives a very detailed history of the campaign has been erected on the edge of town. More famous probably is their partnership with drug lord Khun Sa and the Shan United Army in the Golden Triangle opium trade.

... which brings us to our next stop: the Hall of Opium down the road from the famed Golden Triangle, where Thailand, Burma, and Laos meet.

This amazing $US10 million museum is really a series of educational exhibits about the history of opium. The entrance is shown above in the lowest group of buildings on the right; from there you progress thru a tunnel which runs thru the entire hill in the center of the photo, to the rest of the exhibition in the stretched out structure on the left side. The tunnel is a simulated opium 'trip', with disorienting lighting, bas relief ghostlike figures on the walls, eerie cries and sounds, and no end in sight due to its serpentine path. It's quite an introduction! We spent over an hour going thru all the rooms and were very impressed with the creativity and quality of the exhibits. Unfortunately no photos were allowed, so we cannot share this experience visually. Afterward, with some difficulty we found the shuttle bus which takes you back to the car park at the entrance. Then, out of curiosity, we drove up the hill to the structure in the top right of the photo, which is a hotel with attractive modern bungalows scattered on the hillsides along the road. The entire site is beautifully developed and unfortunately underused. It may be due to some confusion with the name; there is a House of Opium down the road in Baan Sop Ruak, the town with the Golden Triangle official monument. This appears to be a private endeavor and has been there for a long time. It houses a great collection of opium-related artifacts and also gives the history, etc. We enjoyed seeing the large collection of pipes and opium weights. Note the label on the pipes...

Our drive home took us thru Chiang Saen, a very old town on the west bank of the Nam Mae Khong/Mekhong River and site of the 14thc. Chiang Saen Kingdom. Phaya Mang Rai, the founder of Chiang Mai is supposed to have been born around here and inherited the rule of the area from his father in 1259. This he expanded to include the towns in the Kok River Basin (around Chiang Rai), giving the kingdom the name 'Yonok'. (In 1296 he founded Chiang Mai further south.) His nephew Phaya Saen Phu established Chiang Saen as a principality and then moved the capital of Lan Na from Chiang Mai to Chiang Saen. Many ruins abound throughout the small town and there is an interesting branch of the National Museum with some fine cast Buddhas, and a hall of hilltribe artifacts including some weaving tools.

Kafe with the Karen

2007-09-28T19:08:00.001+07:00

One recent Sunday afternoon found us in the hills of Doi Inthanon, Thailand's highest mountain, located south of Chiang Mai. There, we were taken to several Karen villages by our guide friend Chaiya, who is a Karen himself. I didn't realize that the Karen were the only hilltribe to grow wet rice in terraces, and we saw several beautiful examples.

They also grow organic Arabica coffee and that was part of our mission. This coffee doesn't make it to Chiang Mai, but is bought wholesale by buyers from Japan, Taiwan and Starbucks. After finding the local coffee cafe (below right) and finishing our picnic lunch with a few cups, we could see why. The beans were roasted by hand to a lovely, dark turn in a homemade roaster, shown here with some young assistants (below left).

We also went in search of some weavers, hoping to see them in action, but Sunday is a workday and most of them were out in the fields. A few ladies were at home tho, and one showed us her weaving implements, including an ingenious thread winder that was made of branches and bamboo, and came apart for easy storage. Her backstrap loom was stored in a lovely, large basket. I was pleased to see the women still wearing traditional clothing, even with their colorful tunics reflecting the current Karen fashion statement of hot pinks and purples, rather than colors made from natural dyes. The men and boys occasionally still wear a traditional tunic (as in the style of the man roasting coffee), but more often are seen in Western dress.

Toto... We're not in Kansas anymore!

2007-08-28T11:41:00.001+07:00

I was privileged to witness an amazing performance of dance and music recently and am still not over it. The performance was a benefit for the renovation of a temple in Keng Tung, a Shan State nearby in Burma, and was probably the vision of the former chair of the Art Department at CMU, Ajan Vithi Phanichphant, who is consulting on the renovation. He has been a tireless advocate for the arts in Thailand, including dance, music, architecture, and textiles. Here (below), he presents images of the temple as an introduction to the performance.

The performance was a sensory delight, with special music composed for each dance, beautifully elegant costumes, dramatic lighting, and original dances which combined traditional Thai, Javanese, and Balinese dance with modern interpretation. I didn't want it to end.

Photography was problematic due to the strong lighting and movement, but I subject you to my efforts in an attempt to convey the beauty and exoticism of this special event, and to give credit to the talented performers.

On the left, the very talented Ajan Manop Manasam becomes a 'kinnara', a mythical creature with a bird's legs and wings on a human body. His costume was no doubt an original, personal creation comprising layers of sumptuous silks, golden wings, and sonorous ankle bracelets and other jewelry.

Below is Waewdao Sirisook in a Javanese (Cirebon) batik performing a modern interpretation of Javanese dance. K. Waewdao has studied Balinese dance in Bali, and is a MFA Dance candidate at UCLA.

Thitipol Kanteewong played his 'magic flute', from which he elicited the most beautiful and haunting sounds which I could have listened to for hours. (No, those are not charmed snakes in the foreground- they're lotus flowers along the edge of the stage.)

This dance featured a king-like figure and two women (worshipping subjects?) who used their long bodice wraps as tensioning for a 'menage a deux'.

A sexy, upbeat version of the traditional candle dance had everyone mesmerized by the fast pace, risk-taking moves and flying, hot wax.

Another standout was the elfin Ronnarong Khampha, who in a past performance of The Tempest must have been perfectly cast as Ariel (I didn't see it, but he's Ariel personified). For this dance he donned a traditional Thai loincloth, with painted upper legs (in acknowledgement of the tattoos with which men used to cover their upper legs), and the long finger extensions which give the elegant Thai hand movements such grace. His movements were beautifully controlled, powerful, yet light and graceful. It's no surprise that he has also been studying Javanese and Balinese dance in Indonesia.

After this incredible performance, I have vowed to not miss any of the events involving Aj. Vithi, Aj. Manop, or their students- they truly have a gift for theater and the performing arts.

Cheers to Mom!

2007-08-14T11:08:00.000+07:00

August 12 is a big day in Thailand- it's the birthday of Queen Sirikit as well as Mother's Day. We celebrated by going to... where else but The 'Mother Temple' of Chiang Mai: Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, which overlooks the city. It was founded by an elephant carrying a piece of a holy relic: after three days of climbing Doi Suthep the elephant circled three times and then fell over and died at this site. The temple is now accessible via a 20 minute car ride on a good road full of switchbacks and twists and turns. Over 200 steps up a naga-flanked staircase complete the journey to the final level which affords a spectacular view of the city.

While there, we chanced upon another 'mom': a mythical creature featured as a textile and tattoo motif, and often seen guarding temple sanctuaries. All we lacked to complete my Mother's Day was daughter Leslie.

'Phi Ta Khon' Festival - Day 1 of 3

2007-07-29T15:48:00.003+07:00

Once a year, in late June/early July, the spirits wake up, don masks and other accoutrements, and take to the streets of Dan Sai, a small town in eastern Thailand near the Lao border, for two days of merriment and innocent mayhem. The timing coincides with the beginning of the Rainy Season and the planting of the rice crop.

‘Phi’ is Thai for ‘ghost’, or ‘spirit’ (pronounced as ‘pee’); ‘Ta’ (technically it sounds like ‘dtah’) means ‘eyes’; and ‘Khon’ means 'people', as well as referring to the famous Thai traditional, masked dance discipline. (Some translate the name as "spirits with human eyes", which may refer to earlier mask designs with large, more human-like eyes.) Most of the masks are made of traditional materials: a large ‘huat’, or basket for steaming sticky rice, is attached to the hard end of a large palm frond, thus forming the now-famous face and ‘hat’ configuration. Various media are used to embellish the creations including enamel paints, carved wood, sawdust paste, curved rattan, stickers, etc.

We also spied the more traditional palm leaf sunhats being used with masks by one group, as well as papier mache masks on different types of ogres.

Costumes have also evolved from pieced collections of old scrap materials of traditional pattern, to colorful new, but still handmade outfits in polyester or cotton.

Phallic accoutrements took the form of sword handles, guns, tree branches, and even a plow and buffalo nose (!).

Some aspects of the celebration are Buddhist, including daily merit-making processions to the main temple in town, but most activities are spirit-related. Each year the celebration starts with a ‘Bai Sii’ at the home of the local spirit medium, the Jao Por Guan, with offerings made to the ancestor spirits. (His female counterpart is Jao Mae Nangtiam, who connects with female spirits.) He and Jao Mae Nangtiam, then led a procession of townspeople and masked ‘Phi Ta Khon’ down the main street of the town and to the temple.

A carnival atmosphere reigned throughout the town, with throngs of the colorful, masked tricksters brandishing phallic accessories, photographers equally rampant, and families out in full force. Blatantly bawdy, this is also a fertility festival as evidenced by the many versions of phalluses, and invocations of good luck for the new agricultural cycle.

A judged contest for the best masks and performances was a nod to modern times. And in true Thai style there were food vendors every few feet, with shops setting up temporary booths offering cold drinks, snacks, seasonal fruits, and even quick meals. At night the regional popular music ‘moh lam’ kicked in, along with the ‘lao kao’ (local rice wine) and everyone partied heartily, forgetting that tomorrow would be another day of processions and merit-making.

'Phi Ta Khon' Festival - Day 2 of 3

2007-07-29T14:13:00.001+07:00

On the second day a demonstration of mask-making was given at the Folk Museum at the temple, and after lunch a Grand Parade linked the Municipality Offices with the temple.

In addition to the masked Phi Ta Khon, there was a group of ‘mudmen’, and the Phi Ta Khon Yai (large ‘wearable’ male and female figures with enlarged genitalia).

We also saw the youngest 'phi ta khon' (2-3 years?).

Later a grand entrance was made by the Jao Por Guan carried astride a bundle of long, homemade rockets and throwing gold and silver-wrapped sweets to the crowd (almost like Mardi Gras), prior to the launching of the rockets and a contest for trajectory distance (nothing phallic here…).

After the sunset, a series of Buddhist sermons was read continuously into the night by a rotation of monks. It was still going on the next morning...

'Phi Ta Khon' Festival - Day 3 of 3

2007-07-22T14:27:00.001+07:00

Day 3 was one of sober sermons and business almost as usual. The activities at the temple were only attended by the older village folk, presumably without work and family demands. The 'vihan' where the sermons were still being conducted was filled with elderly ladies in white blouses and traditional 'phaa sin', or silk tubeskirts, with baskets containing ceremonial accessories such as flowers and candles.

Meanwhile, some businesses were open and we even found a souvenir shop available to fill our last minute needs for t-shirts etc.

Alas, the town had successfully exorcised the spirits and insured a prosperous and fertile new year.

See our special collection of masks, 'palad khik' and costumes, and make one of these unique creations part of your own collection.

Thai 'Smailes'

2007-06-19T11:58:00.000+07:00

The culture of traditional tattoos in NW Thailand - Part 1

2007-05-28T15:07:00.000+07:00

Called ‘saak yan’ in Thai, and meaning the action of tattooing (‘saak’) talismanic diagrams (‘yan’), these traditional designs are very compelling for their power as well as for the imagery. We are especially attracted to the almost-‘naïve’, traditional designs used in Thailand, Burma, Cambodia and Laos for the purpose of invulnerability in the face of evil, and attraction in matters of love and money. These often employ a combination of design devices, such as magic diagrams (‘yantra’) with letters or numbers symbolizing special incantations, images of mythical creatures (Hanuman, Rahu, Garuda, Ganesha, etc.), or real creatures imbued with special powers (tigers, gecko/lizards, crocodiles, slow loris, wild boars, as well as occasional humans as monks, dancers, etc.) Additionally, these designs are given more power with added lines of Pali text in Thai or Khmer script.

Here are some photos from a recent ‘Wan Wai Kru’, or Day of Respect for the Master (‘teacher’, or ‘guru’), taken at the home/studio of tattoo master Ajarn Innsom Siriwong, outside of Chiang Mai.

To begin the day, respect must be paid to the deity of tattooing, known as the 'reusi' in Thai (from 'rishi' in Sanskrit). A hermit seer, he is believed to have brought the power of tattoo to mankind. His image is white-bearded, often clad in a tigerskin and wears a special headdress. In the photo above he is on the uppermost altar (left of center), as well as to the lower right of center as a mask/headdress (also shown below).

On this special day, once a year, those who have received tattoos from the master return for his blessings and to ‘recharge’ the magic power of their images, and to get new ones.

We saw the physical transformations of several whose tattoos had ‘possessed’ them, and they became tigers, or other powerful creatures.

In this day and age, it is indeed a special event to see the strength of these spirits come alive, and to witness the power of tattoos.

The culture of traditional tattoos in NW Thailand - Part 2 - 'Hurrah for Rahu'

2007-05-27T12:19:00.000+07:00

‘Wan Wai Kru’ is also the most auspicious of times to become newly tattooed, and Robert decided that this was the day to take the leap. After all, he reasoned, driving his cycle & sidecar on Thai roads requires all the protection he can get. Thanks to daughter Leslie, Rahu was on his helmet protecting his head- so he might as well use the powers of Rahu to protect his skin! Above is the image of Rahu that Ajarn Innsom drew and used for the tattoo. It was too large, so he sent someone off to make a reduction and the copy was used as a pattern, after being applied with a solvent directly to the skin.

It took Ajarn Innsom an hour to complete the design and perform the ‘kaataa’, or magical incantations which bring the power of the image to life. Rahu must have been sleeping because Robert never stirred during this ceremony, tho the ‘kaataas’ were powerful and the help of the ‘reusi’ was invoked. Final blessings were made and Robert thanked the 'kru saak yan' for imparting the power and protection of Rahu, the deity of eclipses and protector of mankind.

We have just uploaded some tattoo-related items on the website, as well as some more photos of local tattoos, and a bit of history and information about tattooing.

Thai Cultural Loss

2007-05-23T09:32:00.001+07:00

Sakorn Yangkhiawsod, aka Joe Louis, a Thai "National Artist" and the founder of the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre in Bangkok died 21 May at age 85. Puppeteering was in his blood- both his parents were puppet masters and he was named after a character in a play they were performing (Joe Louis was his nickname). Begun in 1985, his theater kept alive an art form that dated to the 11th century in Thailand and is unique among the various forms of puppetry. Derived from traditional Thai khon theater, a stylized and refined form of performing art which includes dancing, singing and music, the puppet plays are performed by puppeteers who are also khon performers. Meter-high, papier mache puppets are three-dimensional (unlike shadow puppets), and controlled with sticks (unlike marionettes from Burma) by the puppetmasters who are also onstage.

Their production of "The Myth of Rahu and the Lunar Eclipse" won them the 'Best Traditional Performance Award' at the 10th World Festival of Puppet Art, in Prague, in June 2006.

His children and grandchildren continue the tradition at his famous theater in Suan Lum Night Bazaar, 1875 Rama IV Road, Bangkok, as well as a new venue beginning in September- the Aksara Grand Theatre at the King Power Complex on Soi Langnam.

Wet, Wet, Wet!

2007-04-19T16:27:00.000+07:00

Sawadee Bpee Mai! We are still recovering from the festivities of Songkran, or Thai New Year. For about a week the country, and Chiang Mai especially, engages in water wars partly out of tradition and partly as relief from the oppressive heat and dryness of April. Originally a rite of fertility and cleansing, intending to wash away the old year and bring renewal and good blessings for the new one, Songkran celebrates the transition from Aries to Taurus, and is based on the lunar calendar and traditional agricultural cycles. It began with pre-Buddhist Dai, or Tai, people who migrated from southern China and now populate Burma, Thailand, Laos and parts of Vietnam. Contrary to what most tourists here think, it is a gentle celebration with religious overtones.

My favorite part is the parade of venerable Buddhas down Tha Pae Road. Special lustral water is carefully prepared with certain flowers and other fragrant ingredients for cleansing the Buddhas as they go by on beautiful flower-bedecked floats (sometimes pickups). One tosses or ladles the water, and then collects some of what has touched the Buddha to further enhance all the freely flowing good blessings. Respect is also shown to elders, who are gently annointed by younger people with a small cupful of water poured over a shoulder and down the back. Traditional dress is the order of the day, and jasmine flower leis are worn and given. This year one could still see vestiges of the traditional ways of celebrating, tho many foreigners seemed oblivious as they sported the latest dayglo waterguns, and revealing clothing. Herewith, some images from the Buddha Parade:

Sad news from Sumatera

2007-03-11T22:15:00.001+07:00

This past week Mother Nature got angry and West Sumatera (that's how they spell it) was the victim of her rage, suffering a 6.3 level earthquake. We visited there about 10 years ago and have very fond memories- in fact we've been wanting to return for quite a while. The people are kind and gentle, the terrain beautiful with jungle-covered mountains, and the traditional arts refined and unique. Padang is the major port and airport in the region; Solok to the east was the epicenter of the quake; both suffered greatly. Our thoughts and sympathies are with the people there as they struggle with the devastation and try to put their lives back together.

Here are some images from a happier time.

Inhabited by the ethnic group 'Minangkabau', this area is known for their distinctive architecture, with the roofs having exaggeratedly pointing ends which are thought to mimic the water buffalo, as are the women's similarly configured headdresses. The finest houses have ornate details including fine wood carving and polychrome; most are wood.

Their society is also distinctive with a matrilineal kinship tradition and a strong adherence to Islam- two seemingly disparate characteristics. We were fascinated by the unusual social mores, especially while living with the strict Islamic tenets of Saudi Arabia. As the name suggests, descent and inheritance are traced through the women rather than men; houses and land belong to women and often they run the businesses. Sadly, this system is now dying out as Minang emigrate to other parts of Indonesia, and the world.

Another notable feature of this region is the plethora of spices and other valuable commodities grown: coffee, pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, and kapok to name a few that we saw. We even saw a medicine man with various exotic animal bits.

Up into the Minang Highlands, and down a winding road with 44 switchbacks lies Lake Maninjau, an enormous, ancient crater lake. Tho smaller than it's more famous neighbor Lake Toba, in north Sumatra, nonetheless it is quite impressive, especially when one considers the amount of earth displaced in its formation: said to be 220-250 km cubed! (Mother Nature has long been letting off steam in this region.) Approximately 17 x 8 km in size, it is fairly unspoilt and very beautiful, with small villages sparsely scattered around its edge.

No discussion of this region would be complete without a mention of their very fine traditional weavings: this was one of the things that attracted us in the first place. The Minangkabau are known for their very rich, but refined silk and metallic thread ('songket') ceremonial weavings, especially those used for shouldercloths and the women's horned headdresses.

Such weaving continues in the village of Pandai Siket, outside of Bukittinggi.

For more current information on the quake situation there, please see this posting on Reliefweb.

Sawadee Bpee Mai Chin!

2007-02-18T23:11:00.000+07:00

Happy Chinese New Year! Tis the Year of the Pig and the Warowat Market area, here in Chiang Mai, was awash in red. The local Chinese temple had multiple fans going to move all the smoke from the incense, and a singer was in an adjacent room serenading a small audience. Shop fronts were decorated, and many were even open for business. The one shown here below was for a rather prominently located jewelry store. Note the King's picture top center, and two pandas at the upper right (our zoo got two pandas last year and they're very popular).

Special food vendors filled the streets which were blocked to most vehicular traffic, and tables and chairs accommodated those stopping to eat. The selection of foods was more varied than most local festivals with the expected dumplings plentiful, but also to be found was squid (huge) from New Zealand, shwarmas(!), roasted chestnuts, and pizza, plus the largest vat of frying fishcakes that we've ever seen.

To get into the spirit of this most special of times, we will be adding a new collection of Chinese ethnic minority textiles to the website: beautiful silk embroideries, baby carriers and costumes, and even a waxed (but undyed) batik panel. Look for them in Textiles/SE Asia/China.

From The Ends of The Earth

2006-12-16T11:23:00.000+07:00

Last night we were nicely entertained for a couple of hours by this wonderful double set of DVDs from Janet Willoughby, at Ends Of The Earth. A very thoughtful gift from Pamela Cross, they document a large variety of surviving (some only barely) weaving traditions around the world, and show in detail the use of all kinds of looms and the different techniques employed. Janet has travelled and video'd weavers in Guatemala, Mexico, Bolivia, Peru, Bali, Sumba, Burma, Laos, Thailand, India, Ghana, and Turkey (plus others no doubt), and the ingenious variations on the process of combining warps and wefts are quite awe-inspiring- from the mechanisms (looms) to the weavings. These tribal people would be naturals with computers, as these looms are not dissimilar in the skills and expertise required. (Of course, it is well known that the jacquard looms of the 19thc.inspired the first punchcard computers.) Covered on the DVD are all the stages of setting up the various looms: warping, tying the heddles, etc.; then the different weaving methods: warp-faced, weft-faced, supplementary warp and weft, 'pick-up', four selvedge, warp and weft ikat, and double ikats, tapestry, cicim and even carpets. It was interesting to see similarities such as the Guatemalan weavers using the same looms and methods as Karen weavers in Thailand. It was also enlightening to see double ikats being woven on large looms in Gujarat (their origin), as well as Tenganan, Bali, but on small backstrap looms. Needless to say, we learned a lot and will be reviewing the information often. This set, and others, can be ordered from Janet's website.

Long Live The King!

2006-12-05T20:16:00.000+07:00

Happy Birthday King Bhumipol Adulyadej!

As I write this, it sounds like a war-zone outside as the surrounding villages and towns celebrate the King's 79th birthday. Incendiary devices are going off everywhere: fireworks, fire balloons, firecrackers- the whole arsenal. And on live TV an amazing outpouring of love and solidarity is manifested by a sea of people dressed in yellow (the King's color) and holding candles at a special ceremony in Sanam Luang, the large open area in downtown Bangkok. Here in Chiang Mai, the place to be is the Royal Flora Ratchaphreuk, the world-class horticulture exhibition in honor of the King's 60th Anniversary on the throne.

The King's annual birthday speech to the people was actually given yesterday to a limited audience. It was short, as befits his health-limited attendance at events, and to the point: he spoke highly of the wisdom and experience that comes with age and chastized elderly people who do not use or share their knowledge and insights. No doubt he was referring to his aging advisors and their detractors. Stating that he was "bored" with politics, he also addressed the widespread flooding that has only just receded in the south/central part of the country, and blamed those in charge of water management for the recent debacle. Speeches in the recent past had been used as opportunities to criticize then-Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra, much to the delight of his detractors. With Thaksin in exile, no such fun was to be had.

Much-loved and respected by all Thais, King Bhumipol (pronounced 'Pumibon') has taken a great interest in improving the country for his people. We love the old photos of him out hiking through fields and rice paddies with his ever-present camera and notepad. And we are impressed by his patents for cloud-seeding techniques and subsequent success in rainmaking (unlike another king we have known of, who would consult the royal meterologists and then hold special prayers for rain). This year the refrain 'Long Live The King' means more than ever.

Inconvenient Truth Indeed

2006-11-26T23:59:00.000+07:00

We recently had the experience of flying over icecaps near the North Pole and thought we'd share the appalling sight that greeted us as the sun rose on an early November morning. At over 30,000 feet, the dark areas are vast lakes where the ice has broken, revealing stark examples of the effects of global warming. Minutes earlier, before the sun was up this high, we could see what looked like rivers cleaving the huge ice sheet. This is indeed what Al Gore is addressing in his informative (and scary) presentation 'An Inconvenient Truth'. We consider it required viewing by anyone resident on this planet.

UPDATE: Al Gore is asking that everyone who thinks this issue is important go to this site http://algore.com/cards.html to send a postcard to their Congressional representative/senator that Al Gore will personally deliver on March 21st when he addresses a hearing.

Dancing Demons

2006-09-29T23:35:00.001+07:00

No, we're not talking about politics here... this is the subject of a new collection of Burmese marionettes just posted: mostly ogres or otherworldly figures from mythology. Beautifully crafted, with rich detail and traditional designs of both costume and figure, they are fairly large in size and commanding in presence. Their demeanor is rather benign considering their demonic reputations, giving them a certain charm.

...but a lively imagination

2006-09-24T22:40:00.000+07:00

Another attempt to view the Daily Show resulted in this creative message. Bear in mind that this was at 9:30pm on the 24th... It's beginning to look a lot like...Saudi Arabia!

No Sense of Humor

2006-09-24T20:13:00.000+07:00

Not a good omen: the new powers that be last night censored the Daily Show! Only available on Saturday nights, and often pre-empted by the crisis du jour, Jon Stewart's irreverent take on the news is avidly anticipated in this household. So after only a few minutes of this week's show Jon launched into what was looking like a hilarious comment on the small number of tanks involved in this week's coup when the screen went red and inexplicable images of show biz celebrities paraded past with a message that the program would return shortly. Someone had their finger on the Censor button way too long... about ten minutes went by before the program was back on. At least we were allowed our weekly Moment of Zen- krup khun mahk kha.

Chinese Heirloom Blankets

2006-09-17T22:55:00.000+07:00

We've just posted a large exhibition of beautiful heirloom blankets from China's ethnic minorities: the Dong, Buyi, Miao, Yao, Tujia, Maonan and Zhuang. It begins at http://www.tribaltrappings.com/TACH_1A.html and continues for three pages, including baby blankets as well as full-size wedding and ceremonial blankets. Enjoy!

Thai One On

2006-08-10T21:46:00.000+07:00

It is our hope that this new-to-us medium will allow us to share with you more easily, and more immediately, information about what's going on in our part of the world, as well as the tribal world. Also, look for more photos than what we can include on www.tribaltrappings.com. May this be 'sanook'/fun for all.