Let there be light!

And Color! A feast for the eyes, friend Patricia Cheesman's latest collection of contemporary woven art is titled 'Woven Sunbeams' and beautifully captures in silk the changing light on the sea of her childhood memories. Conceived by Patricia and woven by master weaver Viroy Nanthapoom, each piece is a rich composition in color and texture. The luminosity of the silk and varied thread thickness make it the perfect medium for conveying the changing reflections of the sun on water. The ten wallhangings are nicely framed in compatibly-colored silk and are also complemented by two long, elegant runners/shawls and two handsome rugs for those special barefoot places.






The lovely blue composition on the wall above is of a very fine, smooth silk and must be seen up close (below) to fully appreciate the subtle colorations, tho from a distance it is equally stunning. One of the handsome rugs/floor mats is in the foreground- these can be custom made in special colors.


Photos do not do justice to the beauty of these works- if you are in Chiang Mai, do see them before 20 June, at Studio Naenna in Chiang Kian.

Chemins Du Monde visits Chiang Mai

No, it's not a circus group or French travel newspaper- rather it's an intrepid couple in a revitalized Citroen delivery van who are traveling the world and, luckily for all of us, documenting their adventures. Robert happened on them at our mechanic's shop and brought home this card. We intend to check their website frequently and see how their trip is going.


Here they are in Chiang Mai at J&N Auto, who offered them the hospitality of water and electricity and the company of lots of funny old cars. We missed meeting them by minutes, but wish them 'chok dee mahk mahk'/bonne chance/much good luck and Happy Trails!

Chiang Mai Secret - Dok Mai Garden

This week I spent an enjoyable afternoon touring Dok Mai Garden, south of Chiang Mai. As with so many of the best things in life, this is the result of following ones' bliss. Both Khun Ketsanee and her husband Eric, a botanist, are dedicated growers, nurturers, and thankfully, educators in that they want to share their knowledge and gardening experience, and have opened their project to the public for that purpose. Cultivated for barely three years now, it has some thriving specimens which show just how quickly things grow here in the tropics. Some of the plants are rare in Thailand, as exemplified by the one on the cover of their brochure: a citrus medica var. sarcodactylis, known as 'Buddha's Hand' and used in China as a special offering on altars. Evidently this plant has attracted the attention of local Thais, and many have visited the garden just to see this one plant. But there's so much more in their 24 rai, or 9 acre, garden: over 700 different plants, including 125 different vegetables and 90 species with edible fruits or nuts. One area is designed with special plants solely to attract butterflies; another area enclosed in black rods and 'guarded' by a menacing statue of a snarling lion contains only toxic plants, some of which are dangerous to even touch(!). I particularly liked their open-minded attitude about all living creatures, pests included, which entails using nature to fend off predators. Fertilizer is also natural, with much of it provided by a handsome pair of water buffalo. I saw many plants that I'd never seen before, such as that which supplies us with the wonderful white Thai peppercorns called 'phrik Thai' in their dried form; in their fresh form they are what the French refer to as 'poivre vert', or green peppercorns, and are also used in Thai cooking. I must get one now that I know what to look for! I was also pleasantly surprised to see several fruit-bearing cashew nut trees, from which I gleaned a souvenir to bring home to Robert to plant. There were many more surprises, but you'll just have to go and find your own!

Dok Mai Garden is open every day, but it is suggested that you call ahead and let them know you're coming. They have a website, and their phone number is 66/089/433-9045. A nice garden restaurant, and shop with botanical literature and fine crafts add to the experience.

Songs of Memory; Traditional Music of the Golden Triangle

We just returned from Bangkok and the opening of friend Victoria Vorreiter's multi-media exhibition at the Jim Thompson House and Gallery. For about 5 years now she has been documenting the traditional music of the tribal groups living in the border region of Laos, Burma, and Thailand, known as the Golden Triangle. Using video and recordings, she hopes to produce a DVD later this year, but for this exhibition she prepared a CD of the music, still photographs, short video clips for each tribe, and a book. I was honored to be involved with the production of the book, which made its debut at the exhibit (cover above). At over 200 pages, it had evolved into a bit more than just an exhibition catalog and includes, in addition to Victoria's evocative prose and still photos of the tribal people, artful photos of the instruments (by Galen Garwood), and an archive showing each instrument and its pertinent details. I will have books available, so write me via our website if you're interested.

The opening was a huge celebration and included four tribal musicians who charmed the 'hi-so' set with their considerable talent. From left are Chi (Karen harp master and well known vocalist), a lady Akha singer and leaf virtuoso, Victoria, Aju (Akha master musician of many instruments and protector of Akha culture), and a Lisu musician/dancer/performer extraordinaire.

A contingent of friends from Chiang Mai also made the journey and helped out with the dressing of the mannequins. Here, the winding of a Mien woman's turban required the expertise and four hands of Nussara and Rin.

Most of the instruments were displayed in special, custom-made modules which even included drawers that opened to reveal small pieces such as mouth harps. A listening and viewing station was also included for each group.

Costumes for each of the six tribes were displayed along a side wall and were adjacent to the appropriate instrument displays. Tho Victoria has documented the music of more groups, this exhibition and book were limited to the Karen, Hmong, Mien, Lahu, Akha, and Lisu. In the photo below, on the right, are Lisu tseubeu in the case with Karen harps and clothing in the background (Lisu costumes are to the left, but not in the photo). Below, to the left, are shown Lahu free reed pipes in the cabinet, with their clothing and a bossed gong along the wall. A group of Akha outfits are below, with the large bamboo beaters used by hunters in the corner.

Many attendees wore tribal dress, and the group of friends below showed off a variety of ethnic attire and accessories from different places in the region including China, Burma, Laos, Thailand, and even India.

Below, Rin, Dtoy, and Nussara are resplendent in Hmong/Miao and Mien pieces from China and Thailand.


For more information on Victoria's current project, and a past one on the traditional music of Morocco, go to her website. The photo galleries are a real treasure trove of tribal people, their clothes and milieu. Also see the Jim Thompson House website for information about the exhibition and more photos. This 'must-see' show will be up until 23 July, 2009, so if you find yourself in Bangkok, don't miss it.

Red: the new Yellow

It's deja vu all over again. A little over four months after the last uprising against 'the Government' we now have people in red shirts wreaking havoc in Bangkok, not unlike that wrought by people in yellow shirts back in November and December, and with the same goal- that of overthrowing the current government. At least these folks haven't taken over the airports. But they might as well have, considering the blow made to Thai tourism. First, they broke thru the lines of soldiers providing, albeit lackadaisically, 'security' to the ASEAN summit meeting in Pattaya, and then broke into the hotel and completely disrupted the impending summit session, forcing it to cancel and the regional national leaders to leave by helicopter. Taken to a nearby military base from which they left for their home countries, the leaders will no doubt have second thoughts about visiting Thailand again. To say that Thailand, and the PM, have suffered a huge embarrassment is an understatement.

Empowered by the 'success' of their Pattaya adventure, the red-shirted protesters went back to Bangkok and took over key intersections, along with attempts to take over the Interior Ministry and Government House. They called for 'open season' on the PM and other members of Parliament and, in the attempt to 'catch' the PM, managed to inflict serious injury to members of his staff, justifying their zeal with slogans and speeches about "real democracy" and the overthrow of this illegal government.

To anyone not keeping up too closely, this is really confusing-- it sounds just like what went on late last year, but the color du jour then was yellow. This year, the yellow shirts have been put away since the old government in fact captiulated and the new government was basically to their liking. Now in office for a few months only, the new government is under threat by the sour grapes faction that liked the old government and is being encouraged and funded by exiled former PM Taksin Shinawatra. Sporting red shirts, it has gathered strength from all the poor and disenfranchised around the country, especially the north and northeast.

So, what is the next color to find favor, you ask? We don't know, but we are wearying of the childish, but dangerous, behavior that is being encouraged by the lack of accountability. To give in to this mob rule only empowers and rewards simplistic political thinking. These mobs do not represent the majority and their tactics are in no way democratic. We have heard from several sources that many of these protestors are well-paid. The timing is also carefully considered, as many are off work for the Songkran/Thai New Year vacation, and are available for these extra-curricular activities. Had this type of behavior been dealt with the last time, when the perpetraitors wore yellow, the new perpetraitors in red might have given more thought to their actions. It seems to be a vicious cycle of colored shirts, each doing their part to undermine their country, all mis-using and abusing the term "democracy". When will it end?!?

Wonders Never Cease

Today, on the way into town I was surprised out of my expat complacency by this amazing sight.

Good Riddance

Need I say more?

Just Kidding Around

December's gathering of the faithful, our informal textile group, occurred at the lovely home of Siripan and Tony Kidd, where we were treated to a visual feast of Siripan's artful quilts. Like a fish out of water when she first moved to England, Siripan found her creative voice by pairing the traditional medium of quilting and handsewing, with the gorgeous Thai silk of her homeland. As an early docent at the Jim Thompson house and a fan of the company's famous wares, she collected rolls of remnant silk and began using it to make pieced quilts. She became aware of the unique sheen of silk and how to use its directional light-reflecting qualities to give her pieces even more life than just that imparted by the glorious colors. Combining that with her unique "rice grain" stitches for texture gives her work an almost painterly quality.



Here she is joined by husband Tony in displaying a piece inspired by weather pattern diagrams. Another piece (below) in 'cool' colors evokes the Suffolk winters and is titled accordingly. Here the very beautiful texture is readily apparent, along with the sheen of the silk.


Most of Siripan's work is abstract and Modernist: influences could be Modigliani, Arp and other notable 20thc. modern painters, tho she doesn't cite anyone specific. Her recent work has become more conceptual and three-dimensional, challenging the definitions of quilting and using it as a very 21st century artistic medium.

In addition to her quilts, Siripan offers workshops in textile art at her home, and also leads textile tours around this region. Check her website for more information.





If you are in interested in our informal textile-related activities, contact me to get on our email list.

"I like seal meat better"

It's curious to see American corporate imperialism show up in the guise of "hamburger taste tests" in remote areas of the world, and even more curious to see it come to Chiang Mai. Somehow they managed to find a Hmong village within 15 minutes of a Burger King and a MacDonald's here. That the Hmong villagers who participated had never had a hamburger is not surprising at all, even tho Chiang Mai has had both franchises for at least ten years and in multiple locations. Nothing about a hamburger except maybe the tomato and lettuce would be familiar to them: bread is not part of their diet; ground meat patties (if you can even call it 'meat') are unknown; and the requisite sauces are boring compared to locally available condiments. The cost alone would not allow them to indulge in such dietary adventurism. And it's just as well. They eat far more healthily and sustainably than most Americans, as do probably most of the other remote groups sought out by the taste testers. Lets hope that this publicity exercise remains just that and does not influence these people to alter their diets. Maybe it will even make those conducting the tests reconsider their eating habits after trying the home cooking of their subjects...maybe.

(I would normally include a link to the site showing the video for these so-called taste tests, but it's getting enough press lately and I just don't feel like contributing to it- check out Huffington Post among other sites. Other regions visited include Romania and Greenland- where seal is the meat of choice.)

That Was The Week That Was

With the airports getting back to functionality after more than a week of chaos and economic ruination, everyone was avidly awaiting the King's annual birthday speech, only to have their hopes dashed-- the Crown Prince and Princess Sirindhorn announced that he was ill with a sore throat and would not be able to speak. This is most unfortunate, as his wisdom and guidance are very much needed at this time. We wish the King a speedy recovery and many more birthdays to come. Long Live the King!

Face Saved All Around

At last! The outrageous occupation of the airports in Bangkok appears to have ended and in true Thai style, an army of cleaners will swoop in and business will quickly get back to normal. Except that this high season there will be fewer visitors, with many having canceled their trips, or at least the part that included Thailand. And that will trickle down to many businesses and people living close to the edge. The high fuel costs during the summer already had dealt a blow to tourism, and the global economic downturn was also having its effects. The tourists coming this high season had booked before all that, but next year will definitely feel the economic effects of this year. And now next year's tourist season will also reflect the recent insanity with even fewer potential visitors willing to risk having their vacation ruined by political unrest. Face-saving is as superficial as face makeup. There still should be some accountability for the holding hostage of a country and hundreds of thousands of guests in, or planning to visit, that country. Normally I do not advocate the litigious route, but in this case with so many billions of baht having been lost by this calculated act of terrorism, it seems only just. Sadly, it will not compensate those on the lower reaches of the 'trickle down', but it might make the perpetraitors think twice before trying this again.

May We Live In Interesting Times

The cliche continues. The airport is still occupied by the PAD, who have run off the police, and have admitted to planning to use women and children as human shields if need be. I'm finding the best information is coming from various blogs, rather than the mainstream press: Bangkok Pundit is compiling articles from various sources and adding intelligent commentary.

One of his sources is a very interesting blog by a British expat who decided to see what the PAD occupation of Government House was all about back in September. It gives some insight into who the protesters are and why they are participating in this exercise. He likens it to "visiting a temple fair through the back door... the only thing...missing were the fairground rides". And his photos show Thais happily posing in all manner of yellow garb and a site that looks like an urban campsite. Evidently, for many Thais it is seen as "historic" and safely rebellious (the 'safe' part may have required reconsideration after the occasional lobbing of bombs at the site). But, as he was leaving the site, a comparison with the "Wild Wild West" was more appropriate as he witnessed PAD guards beating someone with iron rods.

This situation is clearly a study in contradictions, beginning with the name of the group. Their true agenda appears to be hidden in a barrage of patriotic cheerleading and emotional rhetoric. The silence from the leader to whom they pay lip service will hopefully end this week, and maybe the insanity will also end. Stay tuned.

Democracy: PAD-style

As most of the world knows, the two airports in Bangkok are under siege by an anti-government group ironically called ‘People’s Alliance for Democracy’, aka PAD, or ‘yellow-shirts’ (their opposition, the pro-government group wears red shirts), which is demanding the resignation of the Prime Minister. They have forced the cancellation of hundreds of flights and effectively ruined Thailand’s image internationally, as well as much of the economy which is largely based on tourism and exports. Thousands of travelers were stranded, and many others have had to cancel plans to come to Thailand. The PAD has now been there for over four days and shows no signs of leaving unless their demand is met. The PM's response has been to declare a State of Emergency and state that he has no intention to step down. If this situation continues, Thailand can forget about hosting the upcoming ASEAN summit in mid-December. There are predictions of 500,000 to 1,000,000 jobs being lost in the tourism sector due to cancellations, loss of business, etc., and that doesn’t take into account jobs in other areas that will be jeopardized by the loss of business (shipping companies, companies dependent on import or export for just a few examples). In addition to shipping being affected, even the mail has been affected- we’ve not had any for four days and certainly do not want to try to send anything.

Clearly this is not a laughing matter, BUT one does need take a break from the insanity, and in considering just how the removal of several thousand entrenched protesters from the airport might be accomplished we found some novel suggestions on www.thaivisa.com:

- offer free som tam (a spicy salad of shredded green papaya from Isaan) outside to lure them out (this ignores the fact that the people from Isaan are more likely supporters of the government)
- send in 500 of the most virile male elephants in heat and mist the site with female elephant urine
- offer the protesters 1000B each to leave
- send in all the stray ‘soi’ dogs in the city to flush out the demonstrators
- send in the cobras; a sequel to the film ‘Snakes on a Plane’ called ‘Snakes in an Airport’
- get them drunk on free beer and let them fight each other
- make Don Mueang the international airport again and lock the protesters in Suvarnabhumi to stew for a few years

Stay tuned!

We don't have to pretend to be Canadian anymore!

During the last eight years, as expats we have on occasion had to claim citizenship other than American, and given our appearance and language, found Canadian to be the safest and most convenient. No offense intended to our Canadian friends, but maybe now we can admit to being American without embarrassment or risk. The election of Barack Obama gives us new hope for our country, and its place in the world. We now have hope for an end to the artificial divisions conjured up by partisan manipulators and hatemongers; hope for dialogue with our foes, and therefore negating the need for preemptive military actions; hope for renewed respect for the value of education, science, and art; hope for restoring the rule of law as written in the Constitution, not as interpreted by sycophantic ‘wannabes’; hope for the elevation of ethics and moral behavior in government and corporate America (tho this may be Great Expectations!); and hope for an improved perception of our country by the rest of the world- one based on the good that we do, and an end to the bad and the ugly. This may be asking a lot of one man, but this one man has already achieved much in breaching the hurdles of our culture. His accomplishments have given us the opportunity to dare to be optimistic. My biggest hope is that we are not asking too much.

Shakin' Shamans

Just to remind us of the global concern about the US elections, here are some Peruvian shamans with meaningful moves. Oh, and they're overwhelmingly in favor of Obama. Shake a tail feather!

Happy Chulalongkorn Day!

Today memorializes the death of one of the greatest kings of Siam - Rama V, or Phra Chula Chomklao Chaoyuhua as his royal name is designated, or simply 'King Chulalongkorn'. The Western world knows him best from the movie 'The King and I'. Born in 1853, he died in 1910 and was the fifth king of the Chakri dynasty (the current king, Bhumipol, is the ninth). It is not without merit that the Thais also call him "The Great Beloved King"; he made many modern changes to government (such as establishing provinces and districts as are used today), abolished slavery, maintained independence despite regional colonization by Britain and France, was the first Thai ruler to travel to Europe (twice), and allowed religions other than Buddhism to be practiced. During his rule the first railroad was constructed (from Bangkok to Ayuthaya), the traditional lunar calendar was replaced with the Gregorian calendar, and the modern monetary system of banknotes was introduced. He was well-educated and well-traveled, with studies abroad in Singapore, Java and India, as well as the trips to Europe, and fittingly the best university in Thailand is named after him.

We in the north of Thailand also celebrate the link to King Chulalongkorn of the Lan Na Princess Jao Dara Rasami. As a favorite consort and the daughter of a Chiang Mai king, she was instrumental in joining the northern kingdom of Lan Na with that of Siam (for more about this please see the informative article in 'Welcome to Chiangmai & Chiangrai'). Her last home is located north of the city and is open to the public.

Tools as Art

We have recently added a page of extraordinary, old weaving tools from Cambodia: beautiful brushes for applying starch to silk threads or for cleaning them when weaving, plus a nice collection of loom pulleys, many of which are in pairs. The loom pulleys are charmingly carved by young men for young women in whom they have a romantic interest, with the imagination and skill of the carving suggesting their competency as a husband. The bird shown here should have wowed any woman, young or old! These utilitarian objects are wonderful examples of folk art and convey strong cultural beliefs and values.

yIKEs!

Our thoughts are with all our friends in the Houston area as they recover from hurricane Ike. We've been there, done that, and it's no fun. Hope you're all well and that things get back to normal very soon.

I'm Baaack!

After a long and productive trip to the US, I'm back in the Land o' Smiles and attempting to catch up. I owe many friends, acquaintances, and family 'krup khun khas' for all the good meals, guide and chauffeur services, and generous assistance. It wouldn't have been much fun without y'all! Robert thanks you too!

While in DC I visited a favorite museum, the Sackler Asian and African (now the National Museum of African Art) galleries, which are part of the Smithsonian, and was surprised to find a show of the work of El Anatsui. Born in Ghana, but living and teaching in Nigeria since 1975, he recycles a variety of materials into compelling artworks which address his heritage, consumerism, and society's ills, among other things. I was originally introduced to his work at the Harn Museum at the University of Florida, where one of his 'cloths' hangs on permanent display (my photo below).


Made of wired-together metal strips from the necks and tops of liquor bottles that were to be recycled, it is huge, richly textured, and sensuous - all belying the fact that it is made of rigid, unwanted materials. The rich metallic color brings to mind Ghana's famous goldsmith traditions, and its composition of strips gives a nod to the strip-woven cloth of Ghana, called 'kente' (which his brothers and father made as Ewe weavers) . This is even more apparent in a work in a show catalog that I picked up:


Even with these acknowledgements of his origins and that inherent meaning, El Anatsui's work very eloquently speaks a universal language of beauty, creative and meaningful use of materials, and form. More information on this show, the artist and the work is available here. For a fine example of an Ewe kente cloth please see ours here.

More food porn

Good friend Emily Swantner, of Epicurean Odyssey fame, just sent these photos from a food tour of Thailand by her Thai cooking instructor Kasma Loha-unchit. (If you understand Thai, mouseover the photos for the Thai names of the dishes. ) Kasma teaches in California, does food tours of Thailand, and has two wonderful cookbooks to her credit: It Rains Fishes and Dancing Shrimp. Her website is loaded with information on the glorious food from the Land o' Smiles.

Chiang Mai Secret Eats...

This secret is making the rounds by word of mouth, which is how I learned about it. Tucked into a small courtyard behind Monk Chat at Wat Suan Dok is one of Chiang Mai's best Thai restaurants: Pun Pun. Specializing in organic, vegetarian food, they grow many of the ingredients on their farm in Mae Taeng, north of town. The dishes are prepared with a light touch and beautifully presented. A true feast for the eyes, as well as the stomach, is the salad of edible flowers, shown here with avocado dressing.



Another dish we recently enjoyed there, with friend Pooh, was 'Laab Dao Hu', or 'laab' salad made with tofu. 'Laab' is a spicy mixture from Isaan (NE Thailand) of meat, or in this case tofu, shallots, mint, chilis, lemongrass, lime leaves, and a light dressing. We also had a very substantial tofu 'steak' with a creamy green peppercorn sauce and some stir-fried vegetables on the side. Their wonderful red rice accompanied the entrees as an extra.













On another occasion I had an exceptional Banana Flower Salad and Wing Bean Salad, plus a nicely filling Mussaman curry with pineapple, and accompanied by roti. Recent price increases have put some dishes up to 50 baht, but most are 40, which is very good value, especially for the quality.

More information about the admirable efforts of these folks in the field of sustainable living and agriculture is available on their website and includes a page about the restaurant.

Burma Cyclone Conundrum

Sorry for the silence. We are catching up after the Holidaze. However, we have avidly watched the situation in Burma in the aftermath of Cyclone/Hurricane Nargis and want to share a very good, up to date source of information: The Irrawaddy News Magazine. It is a periodical published here in Chiang Mai and available online at the link provided. They have a rather unique perspective as Burmese exiles.

Textiles of the Tai Lue at the Bank of Thailand

This venue almost qualifies as a Chiang Mai 'secret'... hidden behind the huge main building of the Bank of Thailand on the road to Mae Rim, this beautifully conceived and executed museum houses two collections linked by the common thread of commerce. One exhibit is as expected for a bank: coins and their early equivalents (cowries, beads, clay spindles and weights). The other contains textiles from the region, which were an important commodity in trade. I often take visitors here to see this high quality collection, which is available for viewing during bank hours, but the current exhibition is only up for less than a month and deserves special mention. It opened the other night with high ceremony including dancing girls, and guys, traditional music and food galore. Everyone dressed in their best Tai Lue or traditional attire.

A traditional dance of welcome was performed by dancers in vibrant Tai Lue skirts with silk blouses, and ended with a carpet of golden flower petals gracefully strewn onto the green lawn. Lan Na music performed on traditional instruments was a fitting accompaniment. The opening ceremony concluded with the cutting of the ribbon and photographers jockeying for position around the exhibition spaces.

Regarding textiles, one thinks immediately of costume, but in this region certain other genres of textiles are important as well. One of my favorite is that of 'tung', or ceremonial banners that are hung vertically in temples, outside of buildings, or along village roads. The Tai Lue make especially beautiful 'tung' and several nice groupings were on show. (We also have some fine examples available in our Textiles/Thailand section, including one in silk on cotton).

Of the costumes, there was a large variety as befits an ethnic group that has migrated to many different areas. Still, there are distinctive commonalities as can be seen from these photos. One thing always seen is that their tubeskirts comprise two panels sewn together with two side seams, unlike most tubeskirts worn in this region which only have one side seam. This causes stripes in the designs to be horizontal because they have been worked in the weft during the weaving.

They are also known for using the technique of tapestry weave on their tubeskirts and the piece below shows a particularly exuberant example (note the jagged lines bordering the diamonds).

It was also interesting to see an example of the mysterious 'yantra' textiles being used by the Tai Lue. It appears to have writing in the Lan Na language and sports a very nice rendering of entwined nagas. These textiles were used for protection from malevolent forces and are associated with magic and mysterious spells. We have been collecting and studying them for a number of years and offer some here.

Another genre of textile made famous by the Tai Lue are finely woven bed coverings, which were well represented by the striking pieces grouped here. (An example that we have available is here.)

To round it out, the finale was indeed grand, with dances featuring a 'kinnara' and 'kinnaree' (half human, half bird creatures from mythology)... It made me think I'd died and gone to heaven!

Details: The Bank of Thailand, Northern Region Office,
68/3 Chotana Rd., Chiang Mai
053/931-182 or 183
Open: Monday-Friday 9-12 and 1-4pm (except bank holidays)
It's recommended to call ahead and let them know that you would like to see the collection.

Secret Chiang Mai - 'Lan Na Traditional Houses Museum'

This is the first in what I hope will be a series of 'secret' places, or people, or whatever, that we discover in our explorations around Chiang Mai and Thailand. After all, one of the main reasons for moving here was to have the time to get below the surface of the place and the culture. It's taken some time, but Chiang Mai is beginning to yield its secrets.


Under the wing of the Chiang Mai University's Fine Arts Department, and the vision of Ajan Vithi Phanichphant, this lovely collection of old Lan Na houses has been assembled behind the CMU Art Museum on a verdant site. Once part of a large farm surrounding an early 20thc. colonial style house (formerly the home of a representative of the Bombay Burma Company) the site now features seven other northern Thai vernacular houses, including a Tai Lue home, two 'galae' houses, a typical merchant's house from the Anusarn area downtown, and a very nice rice storage barn.



Under the elegantly designed rice granary is a small, but good assemblage of old carts and long drums. Intact carts are rarely seen these days, as they are usually disassembled for their decorative carvings and wooden wheels.

Some of the buildings are occupied, while others are used for special events. We enjoy visiting Lung Daeng, an artist with a studio underneath the small 'galae' house, and usually find him working on a variety of projects such as teaching batik to a group of students, growing and brewing natural dyes, or creating his own paintings under the watchful eyes of several dogs and cats.


It's also worth noting that every first Tuesday and Wednesday there is a market of traditional handmade products and produce in the yard beside the colonial house (along the Canal Road), sponsored by the Center for the Promotion of Arts and Culture of CMU. One can visit the old houses daily from 8:30am-6:00pm.

Oolong in Mae Salong

This month we took a break and headed north to Mae Salong, the Kuomintang town near the Burmese border. Famous for the oolong tea grown there, the town is really a village stretched out along the ridge of a small mountain, and is known for its resemblance to Yunnanese villages in China. The tea plantations fill the steep slopes below the town and the hills around them are peppered with tribal villages, no doubt providing much of the labor for tea-picking. It's quite a bit cooler up here, with the mountains blanketed in mist in the mornings. The main street is lined with teashops and the oolong flows, so keeping warm is no problem.



We stayed at Mae Salong Villa which has grown into a sprawling, hillside-hugging collection of concrete structures - no longer the quaint bungalows described in Lonely Planet. But the room was comfortable and had the added charm of a nice covered veranda with a view of the tea plantations.











In this area the KMT history goes back to 1961, when a group from this anti-Communist army was forced to leave Burma, to which they'd fled after the 1949 Communist victory in China. They crossed into northwestern Thailand and were granted refugee status later in the 1960's, as the Thai government needed a buffer army against any possible Communist incursions into Thailand. Between 1970 and '74 they fought their bloodiest operation against the Communists and lost close to 1000 soldiers. For this the Thai government bestowed citizenship on many of the soldiers and their families. A large Martyr's Temple which gives a very detailed history of the campaign has been erected on the edge of town. More famous probably is their partnership with drug lord Khun Sa and the Shan United Army in the Golden Triangle opium trade.

... which brings us to our next stop: the Hall of Opium down the road from the famed Golden Triangle, where Thailand, Burma, and Laos meet.




This amazing $US10 million museum is really a series of educational exhibits about the history of opium. The entrance is shown above in the lowest group of buildings on the right; from there you progress thru a tunnel which runs thru the entire hill in the center of the photo, to the rest of the exhibition in the stretched out structure on the left side. The tunnel is a simulated opium 'trip', with disorienting lighting, bas relief ghostlike figures on the walls, eerie cries and sounds, and no end in sight due to its serpentine path. It's quite an introduction! We spent over an hour going thru all the rooms and were very impressed with the creativity and quality of the exhibits. Unfortunately no photos were allowed, so we cannot share this experience visually. Afterward, with some difficulty we found the shuttle bus which takes you back to the car park at the entrance. Then, out of curiosity, we drove up the hill to the structure in the top right of the photo, which is a hotel with attractive modern bungalows scattered on the hillsides along the road. The entire site is beautifully developed and unfortunately underused. It may be due to some confusion with the name; there is a House of Opium down the road in Baan Sop Ruak, the town with the Golden Triangle official monument. This appears to be a private endeavor and has been there for a long time. It houses a great collection of opium-related artifacts and also gives the history, etc. We enjoyed seeing the large collection of pipes and opium weights. Note the label on the pipes...


Our drive home took us thru Chiang Saen, a very old town on the west bank of the Nam Mae Khong/Mekhong River and site of the 14thc. Chiang Saen Kingdom. Phaya Mang Rai, the founder of Chiang Mai is supposed to have been born around here and inherited the rule of the area from his father in 1259. This he expanded to include the towns in the Kok River Basin (around Chiang Rai), giving the kingdom the name 'Yonok'. (In 1296 he founded Chiang Mai further south.) His nephew Phaya Saen Phu established Chiang Saen as a principality and then moved the capital of Lan Na from Chiang Mai to Chiang Saen. Many ruins abound throughout the small town and there is an interesting branch of the National Museum with some fine cast Buddhas, and a hall of hilltribe artifacts including some weaving tools.

Kafe with the Karen

One recent Sunday afternoon found us in the hills of Doi Inthanon, Thailand's highest mountain, located south of Chiang Mai. There, we were taken to several Karen villages by our guide friend Chaiya, who is a Karen himself. I didn't realize that the Karen were the only hilltribe to grow wet rice in terraces, and we saw several beautiful examples.


They also grow organic Arabica coffee and that was part of our mission. This coffee doesn't make it to Chiang Mai, but is bought wholesale by buyers from Japan, Taiwan and Starbucks. After finding the local coffee cafe (below right) and finishing our picnic lunch with a few cups, we could see why. The beans were roasted by hand to a lovely, dark turn in a homemade roaster, shown here with some young assistants (below left).

























We also went in search of some weavers, hoping to see them in action, but Sunday is a workday and most of them were out in the fields. A few ladies were at home tho, and one showed us her weaving implements, including an ingenious thread winder that was made of branches and bamboo, and came apart for easy storage. Her backstrap loom was stored in a lovely, large basket. I was pleased to see the women still wearing traditional clothing, even with their colorful tunics reflecting the current Karen fashion statement of hot pinks and purples, rather than colors made from natural dyes. The men and boys occasionally still wear a traditional tunic (as in the style of the man roasting coffee), but more often are seen in Western dress.

Toto... We're not in Kansas anymore!

I was privileged to witness an amazing performance of dance and music recently and am still not over it. The performance was a benefit for the renovation of a temple in Keng Tung, a Shan State nearby in Burma, and was probably the vision of the former chair of the Art Department at CMU, Ajan Vithi Phanichphant, who is consulting on the renovation. He has been a tireless advocate for the arts in Thailand, including dance, music, architecture, and textiles. Here (below), he presents images of the temple as an introduction to the performance.


The performance was a sensory delight, with special music composed for each dance, beautifully elegant costumes, dramatic lighting, and original dances which combined traditional Thai, Javanese, and Balinese dance with modern interpretation. I didn't want it to end.

Photography was problematic due to the strong lighting and movement, but I subject you to my efforts in an attempt to convey the beauty and exoticism of this special event, and to give credit to the talented performers.

On the left, the very talented Ajan Manop Manasam becomes a 'kinnara', a mythical creature with a bird's legs and wings on a human body. His costume was no doubt an original, personal creation comprising layers of sumptuous silks, golden wings, and sonorous ankle bracelets and other jewelry.

Below is Waewdao Sirisook in a Javanese (Cirebon) batik performing a modern interpretation of Javanese dance. K. Waewdao has studied Balinese dance in Bali, and is a MFA Dance candidate at UCLA.

Thitipol Kanteewong played his 'magic flute', from which he elicited the most beautiful and haunting sounds which I could have listened to for hours. (No, those are not charmed snakes in the foreground- they're lotus flowers along the edge of the stage.)

This dance featured a king-like figure and two women (worshipping subjects?) who used their long bodice wraps as tensioning for a 'menage a deux'.

A sexy, upbeat version of the traditional candle dance had everyone mesmerized by the fast pace, risk-taking moves and flying, hot wax.

Another standout was the elfin Ronnarong Khampha, who in a past performance of The Tempest must have been perfectly cast as Ariel (I didn't see it, but he's Ariel personified). For this dance he donned a traditional Thai loincloth, with painted upper legs (in acknowledgement of the tattoos with which men used to cover their upper legs), and the long finger extensions which give the elegant Thai hand movements such grace. His movements were beautifully controlled, powerful, yet light and graceful. It's no surprise that he has also been studying Javanese and Balinese dance in Indonesia.


After this incredible performance, I have vowed to not miss any of the events involving Aj. Vithi, Aj. Manop, or their students- they truly have a gift for theater and the performing arts.

Cheers to Mom!

August 12 is a big day in Thailand- it's the birthday of Queen Sirikit as well as Mother's Day. We celebrated by going to... where else but The 'Mother Temple' of Chiang Mai: Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, which overlooks the city. It was founded by an elephant carrying a piece of a holy relic: after three days of climbing Doi Suthep the elephant circled three times and then fell over and died at this site. The temple is now accessible via a 20 minute car ride on a good road full of switchbacks and twists and turns. Over 200 steps up a naga-flanked staircase complete the journey to the final level which affords a spectacular view of the city.

While there, we chanced upon another 'mom': a mythical creature featured as a textile and tattoo motif, and often seen guarding temple sanctuaries. All we lacked to complete my Mother's Day was daughter Leslie.

'Phi Ta Khon' Festival - Day 1 of 3

Once a year, in late June/early July, the spirits wake up, don masks and other accoutrements, and take to the streets of Dan Sai, a small town in eastern Thailand near the Lao border, for two days of merriment and innocent mayhem. The timing coincides with the beginning of the Rainy Season and the planting of the rice crop.

‘Phi’ is Thai for ‘ghost’, or ‘spirit’ (pronounced as ‘pee’); ‘Ta’ (technically it sounds like ‘dtah’) means ‘eyes’; and ‘Khon’ means 'people', as well as referring to the famous Thai traditional, masked dance discipline. (Some translate the name as "spirits with human eyes", which may refer to earlier mask designs with large, more human-like eyes.) Most of the masks are made of traditional materials: a large ‘huat’, or basket for steaming sticky rice, is attached to the hard end of a large palm frond, thus forming the now-famous face and ‘hat’ configuration. Various media are used to embellish the creations including enamel paints, carved wood, sawdust paste, curved rattan, stickers, etc.


We also spied the more traditional palm leaf sunhats being used with masks by one group, as well as papier mache masks on different types of ogres.

Costumes have also evolved from pieced collections of old scrap materials of traditional pattern, to colorful new, but still handmade outfits in polyester or cotton.

Phallic accoutrements took the form of sword handles, guns, tree branches, and even a plow and buffalo nose (!).

Some aspects of the celebration are Buddhist, including daily merit-making processions to the main temple in town, but most activities are spirit-related. Each year the celebration starts with a ‘Bai Sii’ at the home of the local spirit medium, the Jao Por Guan, with offerings made to the ancestor spirits. (His female counterpart is Jao Mae Nangtiam, who connects with female spirits.) He and Jao Mae Nangtiam, then led a procession of townspeople and masked ‘Phi Ta Khon’ down the main street of the town and to the temple.

A carnival atmosphere reigned throughout the town, with throngs of the colorful, masked tricksters brandishing phallic accessories, photographers equally rampant, and families out in full force. Blatantly bawdy, this is also a fertility festival as evidenced by the many versions of phalluses, and invocations of good luck for the new agricultural cycle.

A judged contest for the best masks and performances was a nod to modern times. And in true Thai style there were food vendors every few feet, with shops setting up temporary booths offering cold drinks, snacks, seasonal fruits, and even quick meals. At night the regional popular music ‘moh lam’ kicked in, along with the ‘lao kao’ (local rice wine) and everyone partied heartily, forgetting that tomorrow would be another day of processions and merit-making.

'Phi Ta Khon' Festival - Day 2 of 3

On the second day a demonstration of mask-making was given at the Folk Museum at the temple, and after lunch a Grand Parade linked the Municipality Offices with the temple.

In addition to the masked Phi Ta Khon, there was a group of ‘mudmen’, and the Phi Ta Khon Yai (large ‘wearable’ male and female figures with enlarged genitalia).

We also saw the youngest 'phi ta khon' (2-3 years?).

Later a grand entrance was made by the Jao Por Guan carried astride a bundle of long, homemade rockets and throwing gold and silver-wrapped sweets to the crowd (almost like Mardi Gras), prior to the launching of the rockets and a contest for trajectory distance (nothing phallic here…).


After the sunset, a series of Buddhist sermons was read continuously into the night by a rotation of monks. It was still going on the next morning...

'Phi Ta Khon' Festival - Day 3 of 3

Day 3 was one of sober sermons and business almost as usual. The activities at the temple were only attended by the older village folk, presumably without work and family demands. The 'vihan' where the sermons were still being conducted was filled with elderly ladies in white blouses and traditional 'phaa sin', or silk tubeskirts, with baskets containing ceremonial accessories such as flowers and candles.

Meanwhile, some businesses were open and we even found a souvenir shop available to fill our last minute needs for t-shirts etc.

Alas, the town had successfully exorcised the spirits and insured a prosperous and fertile new year.

See our special collection of masks, 'palad khik' and costumes, and make one of these unique creations part of your own collection.

Thai 'Smailes'

The culture of traditional tattoos in NW Thailand - Part 1

Called ‘saak yan’ in Thai, and meaning the action of tattooing (‘saak’) talismanic diagrams (‘yan’), these traditional designs are very compelling for their power as well as for the imagery. We are especially attracted to the almost-‘naïve’, traditional designs used in Thailand, Burma, Cambodia and Laos for the purpose of invulnerability in the face of evil, and attraction in matters of love and money. These often employ a combination of design devices, such as magic diagrams (‘yantra’) with letters or numbers symbolizing special incantations, images of mythical creatures (Hanuman, Rahu, Garuda, Ganesha, etc.), or real creatures imbued with special powers (tigers, gecko/lizards, crocodiles, slow loris, wild boars, as well as occasional humans as monks, dancers, etc.) Additionally, these designs are given more power with added lines of Pali text in Thai or Khmer script.

Here are some photos from a recent ‘Wan Wai Kru’, or Day of Respect for the Master (‘teacher’, or ‘guru’), taken at the home/studio of tattoo master Ajarn Innsom Siriwong, outside of Chiang Mai.

To begin the day, respect must be paid to the deity of tattooing, known as the 'reusi' in Thai (from 'rishi' in Sanskrit). A hermit seer, he is believed to have brought the power of tattoo to mankind. His image is white-bearded, often clad in a tigerskin and wears a special headdress. In the photo above he is on the uppermost altar (left of center), as well as to the lower right of center as a mask/headdress (also shown below).


On this special day, once a year, those who have received tattoos from the master return for his blessings and to ‘recharge’ the magic power of their images, and to get new ones.

We saw the physical transformations of several whose tattoos had ‘possessed’ them, and they became tigers, or other powerful creatures.

In this day and age, it is indeed a special event to see the strength of these spirits come alive, and to witness the power of tattoos.

The culture of traditional tattoos in NW Thailand - Part 2 - 'Hurrah for Rahu'

‘Wan Wai Kru’ is also the most auspicious of times to become newly tattooed, and Robert decided that this was the day to take the leap. After all, he reasoned, driving his cycle & sidecar on Thai roads requires all the protection he can get. Thanks to daughter Leslie, Rahu was on his helmet protecting his head- so he might as well use the powers of Rahu to protect his skin! Above is the image of Rahu that Ajarn Innsom drew and used for the tattoo. It was too large, so he sent someone off to make a reduction and the copy was used as a pattern, after being applied with a solvent directly to the skin.

It took Ajarn Innsom an hour to complete the design and perform the ‘kaataa’, or magical incantations which bring the power of the image to life. Rahu must have been sleeping because Robert never stirred during this ceremony, tho the ‘kaataas’ were powerful and the help of the ‘reusi’ was invoked. Final blessings were made and Robert thanked the 'kru saak yan' for imparting the power and protection of Rahu, the deity of eclipses and protector of mankind.

We have just uploaded some tattoo-related items on the website, as well as some more photos of local tattoos, and a bit of history and information about tattooing.

Thai Cultural Loss

Sakorn Yangkhiawsod, aka Joe Louis, a Thai "National Artist" and the founder of the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre in Bangkok died 21 May at age 85. Puppeteering was in his blood- both his parents were puppet masters and he was named after a character in a play they were performing (Joe Louis was his nickname). Begun in 1985, his theater kept alive an art form that dated to the 11th century in Thailand and is unique among the various forms of puppetry. Derived from traditional Thai khon theater, a stylized and refined form of performing art which includes dancing, singing and music, the puppet plays are performed by puppeteers who are also khon performers. Meter-high, papier mache puppets are three-dimensional (unlike shadow puppets), and controlled with sticks (unlike marionettes from Burma) by the puppetmasters who are also onstage.

Their production of "The Myth of Rahu and the Lunar Eclipse" won them the 'Best Traditional Performance Award' at the 10th World Festival of Puppet Art, in Prague, in June 2006.

His children and grandchildren continue the tradition at his famous theater in Suan Lum Night Bazaar, 1875 Rama IV Road, Bangkok, as well as a new venue beginning in September- the Aksara Grand Theatre at the King Power Complex on Soi Langnam.

Wet, Wet, Wet!

Sawadee Bpee Mai! We are still recovering from the festivities of Songkran, or Thai New Year. For about a week the country, and Chiang Mai especially, engages in water wars partly out of tradition and partly as relief from the oppressive heat and dryness of April. Originally a rite of fertility and cleansing, intending to wash away the old year and bring renewal and good blessings for the new one, Songkran celebrates the transition from Aries to Taurus, and is based on the lunar calendar and traditional agricultural cycles. It began with pre-Buddhist Dai, or Tai, people who migrated from southern China and now populate Burma, Thailand, Laos and parts of Vietnam. Contrary to what most tourists here think, it is a gentle celebration with religious overtones.

My favorite part is the parade of venerable Buddhas down Tha Pae Road. Special lustral water is carefully prepared with certain flowers and other fragrant ingredients for cleansing the Buddhas as they go by on beautiful flower-bedecked floats (sometimes pickups). One tosses or ladles the water, and then collects some of what has touched the Buddha to further enhance all the freely flowing good blessings. Respect is also shown to elders, who are gently annointed by younger people with a small cupful of water poured over a shoulder and down the back. Traditional dress is the order of the day, and jasmine flower leis are worn and given. This year one could still see vestiges of the traditional ways of celebrating, tho many foreigners seemed oblivious as they sported the latest dayglo waterguns, and revealing clothing. Herewith, some images from the Buddha Parade:

Sad news from Sumatera

This past week Mother Nature got angry and West Sumatera (that's how they spell it) was the victim of her rage, suffering a 6.3 level earthquake. We visited there about 10 years ago and have very fond memories- in fact we've been wanting to return for quite a while. The people are kind and gentle, the terrain beautiful with jungle-covered mountains, and the traditional arts refined and unique. Padang is the major port and airport in the region; Solok to the east was the epicenter of the quake; both suffered greatly. Our thoughts and sympathies are with the people there as they struggle with the devastation and try to put their lives back together.

Here are some images from a happier time.

Inhabited by the ethnic group 'Minangkabau', this area is known for their distinctive architecture, with the roofs having exaggeratedly pointing ends which are thought to mimic the water buffalo, as are the women's similarly configured headdresses. The finest houses have ornate details including fine wood carving and polychrome; most are wood.

Their society is also distinctive with a matrilineal kinship tradition and a strong adherence to Islam- two seemingly disparate characteristics. We were fascinated by the unusual social mores, especially while living with the strict Islamic tenets of Saudi Arabia. As the name suggests, descent and inheritance are traced through the women rather than men; houses and land belong to women and often they run the businesses. Sadly, this system is now dying out as Minang emigrate to other parts of Indonesia, and the world.

Another notable feature of this region is the plethora of spices and other valuable commodities grown: coffee, pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, and kapok to name a few that we saw. We even saw a medicine man with various exotic animal bits.
















Up into the Minang Highlands, and down a winding road with 44 switchbacks lies Lake Maninjau, an enormous, ancient crater lake. Tho smaller than it's more famous neighbor Lake Toba, in north Sumatra, nonetheless it is quite impressive, especially when one considers the amount of earth displaced in its formation: said to be 220-250 km cubed! (Mother Nature has long been letting off steam in this region.) Approximately 17 x 8 km in size, it is fairly unspoilt and very beautiful, with small villages sparsely scattered around its edge.








No discussion of this region would be complete without a mention of their very fine traditional weavings: this was one of the things that attracted us in the first place. The Minangkabau are known for their very rich, but refined silk and metallic thread ('songket') ceremonial weavings, especially those used for shouldercloths and the women's horned headdresses.


Such weaving continues in the village of Pandai Siket, outside of Bukittinggi.


For more current information on the quake situation there, please see this posting on Reliefweb.

Sawadee Bpee Mai Chin!

Happy Chinese New Year! Tis the Year of the Pig and the Warowat Market area, here in Chiang Mai, was awash in red. The local Chinese temple had multiple fans going to move all the smoke from the incense, and a singer was in an adjacent room serenading a small audience. Shop fronts were decorated, and many were even open for business. The one shown here below was for a rather prominently located jewelry store. Note the King's picture top center, and two pandas at the upper right (our zoo got two pandas last year and they're very popular).

Special food vendors filled the streets which were blocked to most vehicular traffic, and tables and chairs accommodated those stopping to eat. The selection of foods was more varied than most local festivals with the expected dumplings plentiful, but also to be found was squid (huge) from New Zealand, shwarmas(!), roasted chestnuts, and pizza, plus the largest vat of frying fishcakes that we've ever seen.

To get into the spirit of this most special of times, we will be adding a new collection of Chinese ethnic minority textiles to the website: beautiful silk embroideries, baby carriers and costumes, and even a waxed (but undyed) batik panel. Look for them in Textiles/SE Asia/China.

From The Ends of The Earth

Last night we were nicely entertained for a couple of hours by this wonderful double set of DVDs from Janet Willoughby, at Ends Of The Earth. A very thoughtful gift from Pamela Cross, they document a large variety of surviving (some only barely) weaving traditions around the world, and show in detail the use of all kinds of looms and the different techniques employed. Janet has travelled and video'd weavers in Guatemala, Mexico, Bolivia, Peru, Bali, Sumba, Burma, Laos, Thailand, India, Ghana, and Turkey (plus others no doubt), and the ingenious variations on the process of combining warps and wefts are quite awe-inspiring- from the mechanisms (looms) to the weavings. These tribal people would be naturals with computers, as these looms are not dissimilar in the skills and expertise required. (Of course, it is well known that the jacquard looms of the 19thc.inspired the first punchcard computers.) Covered on the DVD are all the stages of setting up the various looms: warping, tying the heddles, etc.; then the different weaving methods: warp-faced, weft-faced, supplementary warp and weft, 'pick-up', four selvedge, warp and weft ikat, and double ikats, tapestry, cicim and even carpets. It was interesting to see similarities such as the Guatemalan weavers using the same looms and methods as Karen weavers in Thailand. It was also enlightening to see double ikats being woven on large looms in Gujarat (their origin), as well as Tenganan, Bali, but on small backstrap looms. Needless to say, we learned a lot and will be reviewing the information often. This set, and others, can be ordered from Janet's website.

Long Live The King!

Happy Birthday King Bhumipol Adulyadej!

As I write this, it sounds like a war-zone outside as the surrounding villages and towns celebrate the King's 79th birthday. Incendiary devices are going off everywhere: fireworks, fire balloons, firecrackers- the whole arsenal. And on live TV an amazing outpouring of love and solidarity is manifested by a sea of people dressed in yellow (the King's color) and holding candles at a special ceremony in Sanam Luang, the large open area in downtown Bangkok. Here in Chiang Mai, the place to be is the Royal Flora Ratchaphreuk, the world-class horticulture exhibition in honor of the King's 60th Anniversary on the throne.

The King's annual birthday speech to the people was actually given yesterday to a limited audience. It was short, as befits his health-limited attendance at events, and to the point: he spoke highly of the wisdom and experience that comes with age and chastized elderly people who do not use or share their knowledge and insights. No doubt he was referring to his aging advisors and their detractors. Stating that he was "bored" with politics, he also addressed the widespread flooding that has only just receded in the south/central part of the country, and blamed those in charge of water management for the recent debacle. Speeches in the recent past had been used as opportunities to criticize then-Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra, much to the delight of his detractors. With Thaksin in exile, no such fun was to be had.

Much-loved and respected by all Thais, King Bhumipol (pronounced 'Pumibon') has taken a great interest in improving the country for his people. We love the old photos of him out hiking through fields and rice paddies with his ever-present camera and notepad. And we are impressed by his patents for cloud-seeding techniques and subsequent success in rainmaking (unlike another king we have known of, who would consult the royal meterologists and then hold special prayers for rain). This year the refrain 'Long Live The King' means more than ever.

Inconvenient Truth Indeed

We recently had the experience of flying over icecaps near the North Pole and thought we'd share the appalling sight that greeted us as the sun rose on an early November morning. At over 30,000 feet, the dark areas are vast lakes where the ice has broken, revealing stark examples of the effects of global warming. Minutes earlier, before the sun was up this high, we could see what looked like rivers cleaving the huge ice sheet. This is indeed what Al Gore is addressing in his informative (and scary) presentation 'An Inconvenient Truth'. We consider it required viewing by anyone resident on this planet.

UPDATE: Al Gore is asking that everyone who thinks this issue is important go to this site http://algore.com/cards.html to send a postcard to their Congressional representative/senator that Al Gore will personally deliver on March 21st when he addresses a hearing.

Dancing Demons

No, we're not talking about politics here... this is the subject of a new collection of Burmese marionettes just posted: mostly ogres or otherworldly figures from mythology. Beautifully crafted, with rich detail and traditional designs of both costume and figure, they are fairly large in size and commanding in presence. Their demeanor is rather benign considering their demonic reputations, giving them a certain charm.

...but a lively imagination

Another attempt to view the Daily Show resulted in this creative message. Bear in mind that this was at 9:30pm on the 24th... It's beginning to look a lot like...Saudi Arabia!

No Sense of Humor

Not a good omen: the new powers that be last night censored the Daily Show! Only available on Saturday nights, and often pre-empted by the crisis du jour, Jon Stewart's irreverent take on the news is avidly anticipated in this household. So after only a few minutes of this week's show Jon launched into what was looking like a hilarious comment on the small number of tanks involved in this week's coup when the screen went red and inexplicable images of show biz celebrities paraded past with a message that the program would return shortly. Someone had their finger on the Censor button way too long... about ten minutes went by before the program was back on. At least we were allowed our weekly Moment of Zen- krup khun mahk kha.

Chinese Heirloom Blankets

We've just posted a large exhibition of beautiful heirloom blankets from China's ethnic minorities: the Dong, Buyi, Miao, Yao, Tujia, Maonan and Zhuang. It begins at http://www.tribaltrappings.com/TACH_1A.html and continues for three pages, including baby blankets as well as full-size wedding and ceremonial blankets. Enjoy!

Thai One On

It is our hope that this new-to-us medium will allow us to share with you more easily, and more immediately, information about what's going on in our part of the world, as well as the tribal world. Also, look for more photos than what we can include on www.tribaltrappings.com. May this be 'sanook'/fun for all.